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Kate Hawley's Oscar Win Shines Spotlight on Tiffany & Co. Brooches and Costume Design Craft

Costume designer Kate Hawley accepting an Oscar award on stage.
Costume designer Kate Hawley accepting an Oscar award on stage. - Reuters

Costume designer Kate Hawley achieved a career milestone this past Sunday, clinching her first Academy Award for Best Costume Design for her work on Guillermo del Toro’s Gothic film, ‘Frankenstein.’ The win not only celebrated Hawley’s artistic vision but also drew attention to the exquisite jewelry she wore and her collaborative efforts with luxury house Tiffany & Co.

A Collaboration for 'Frankenstein'

For her role in ‘Frankenstein,’ Hawley collaborated closely with director Guillermo del Toro and Tiffany & Co. to craft original jewelry pieces featured on actress Mia Goth, who portrayed Elizabeth Lavenza. Tiffany & Co. also provided archival jewelry and objects for use within the film, further enriching the visual narrative. This project marks another collaboration between Hawley and del Toro, who previously worked together on costumes for his films ‘Pacific Rim’ and ‘Crimson Peak.’

A Trio of Tiffany & Co. Masterpieces

For the prestigious awards ceremony, where she accepted her Oscar, Hawley chose to wear a stunning ensemble featuring a custom Rory William Docherty dress complemented by a striking trio of archival brooches from Tiffany & Co., all designed by the legendary Jean Schlumberger. Christopher Young, vice president and creative director at Tiffany & Co., described Hawley's brooch selection as ‘a Jean Schlumberger constellation.’

The topmost brooch, a 1969 ‘Wings’ brooch, is a spectacular piece featuring an approximately 35-carat orange-yellow sapphire at its center. This magnificent gem is surrounded by white diamonds set in platinum, with the iconic wings adorned by colored diamonds meticulously set in gold.

Positioned below was another archival brooch by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co., dating between 1965 and 1970. This exquisite piece showcases a striking yellow beryl gemstone encircled by diamonds, crafted in platinum and gold.

Completing the trio was the ‘Sea Anemone’ clip, a 1952 creation by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. This intricate brooch features a dazzling arrangement of diamonds, rubies, and sapphires, meticulously set in platinum and gold. Young noted that Schlumberger often found inspiration in the natural beauty of marine life, particularly flowers of the sea like anemones, polyps, and corals, which explains the inspiration behind this particular design.

The Resurgence of Brooches

Hawley's choice to wear multiple brooches aligns perfectly with emerging trends. According to Pinterest’s latest trend report, brooches are predicted to gain significant popularity. Her elegant styling demonstrated a masterful execution of the burgeoning ‘Brooched’ trend, proving their enduring appeal and versatility.

Gratitude and Vision

In her acceptance speech, Hawley expressed profound gratitude. ‘On behalf of myself and the amazing team that I work with, the artisans, the alchemists, the dream weavers, we’re so grateful to the Academy for recognizing our craft,’ she stated. She also extended heartfelt thanks to Guillermo del Toro, saying, ‘And Guillermo—I’m not going to cry—thank you for the vision and for taking us on your journey.’ Hawley also acknowledged her fellow nominees, referring to them as ‘dream weaver’ colleagues.

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