Jessica McCormack's Orbit Collection Blends Celestial Wonder with Victorian Charm

Jessica McCormack, the New Zealand-born, London-based jeweler, has launched her captivating new collection, 'Orbit'. This collection reimagines her signature 'Ball n Chain' designs through a celestial lens, drawing inspiration from the 19th century's 'golden age' of astronomy. The brand states the collection centers on the idea of cosmic balance and the harmony of spheres, with pieces designed to complement the wearer's energy.

Celestial Inspiration and Victorian Muse

McCormack explained the philosophy behind the collection: 'Orbit is about gravity. The pieces are designed to sit within the wearer’s orbit, drawn naturally to them, rather than demanding attention.' This concept is rooted in the 19th century's fascination with celestial exploration, a period when discoveries in astronomy captured both scientific and romantic imaginations, influencing art, fashion, and jewelry.

The collection features voluminous 18-karat yellow gold spheres and colored gemstone beads, such as lilac jade and star sapphire, to echo planets. Traditional techniques are balanced with contemporary asymmetry and layering, including Georgian-style cut-down diamond settings and blackened gold finishes.

Signature Pieces and Gemstone Arrangements

The 'Orbit' collection comprises 36 pieces, including rings, earrings, bracelets, necklaces, and pendants, with prices ranging from $4,200. Each item is designed to pair seamlessly with existing McCormack designs, encouraging layered looks to form a personalized 'constellation'.

A standout piece is the 'Planetary' necklace, designed to mimic the configuration of our solar system, with the wearer symbolically representing the sun. This intricate piece showcases eight gemstones, each representing a planet: a 7.92-carat Colombian emerald, a golden South Sea pearl, a 16.21-carat Burmese lilac jade, a 3.70-carat round brilliant-cut diamond, an 18.96-carat melo pearl, a 13.26-carat star sapphire, an angel skin pink coral, and a white pearl. This necklace creates a vibrant and harmonious chromatic sequence.

Another striking piece is a one-of-a-kind brooch, retailing at $425,000, which reimagines a Victorian compass rose. This brooch features a 7.01-carat cushion-cut diamond outlined in blackened gold, with 18-karat yellow gold spires and sunbeams radiating outwards.

Campaign Featuring Zoë Kravitz

The collection's campaign features actress Zoë Kravitz, whose understated style aligns with McCormack's design philosophy. Kravitz is seen wearing several Orbit pieces, including the Planetary Necklace, allowing the sculptural forms and gemstones to be the focal point. Her presence reinforces the collection's concept of jewelry feeling instinctive and integrating naturally into the wearer's world.

Sculptural Forms and Modern Sensibility

Throughout the Orbit collection, polished gold spheres are a recurring motif, acting as planetary bodies or satellites. These are often accented by diamonds or colored gemstones, creating dynamic compositions. Examples include asymmetric sphere earrings, diamond sphere bangles, and pendants where diamonds orbit sculptural gold forms. The designs play with proportion and balance, giving the jewelry an almost kinetic feel.

Beyond its celestial themes, Orbit also nods to jewelry's emotional heritage. The Orbit Locket Pendant, for instance, opens to reveal compartments for photographs or keepsakes, referencing sentimental Victorian lockets. Rings and bracelets feature diamond settings that curve around central gemstones in elliptical loops, further enhancing the theme of movement and celestial paths.

Jessica McCormack's Orbit collection successfully translates celestial geometry into pieces that are both sculptural and effortless. The collection's restraint, focusing on balance between movement and stillness, tradition and innovation, makes it a compelling example of modern luxury jewelry.