Top Setting

A top setting, often referred to as a crown setting or bezel setting when it encircles the entire stone, is a jewelry setting style where the gemstone is held in place primarily by the metal of the ring rising up and over the widest part (girdle) of the stone. This creates a protective lip or rim that secures the gem. The prominence of the metal at the top of the setting is its defining characteristic.

Key Features

• Stone Security: The primary benefit is excellent stone security. The metal edge extending over the girdle provides a strong barrier against impacts, making it ideal for active lifestyles or softer gemstones.
• Protection: It offers significant protection to the gemstone, particularly the crown (top facets) and the girdle, which are the most vulnerable areas to chipping and abrasion.
• Metal Dominance: The design often showcases more metal, which can be used to create decorative textures, patterns, or a substantial look for the ring.
• Light Performance: Depending on the extent to which the metal covers the stone, it can influence light entry. A full bezel top setting will block light from the sides, potentially reducing brilliance compared to open settings. However, it can enhance color saturation in certain gems.
• Versatility: Suitable for various gem shapes and cuts, although it is particularly effective for cabochons, step cuts, and cushion cuts where the girdle is less defined or broader.
• Aesthetic: The look can range from sleek and modern to vintage and ornate, depending on the metalwork and the shape of the top rim.

Origin and History

The concept of using metal to hold stones is ancient. Early forms of jewelry often featured simple bezels or collets that enclosed stones. As goldsmithing techniques evolved, so did the sophistication of settings. The top setting, in its various forms like the full bezel or partial bezel, has roots in early adornment, where practicality and durability were paramount. Historically, it was used extensively before the development of intricate prong settings, offering a reliable way to showcase precious materials.

Types / Variations

Top settings can be categorized by how much of the stone's top edge they cover:

• Full Bezel Top Setting: The metal completely encircles the girdle of the gemstone, providing maximum security and protection. This is the most robust form of a top setting.
• Partial Bezel Top Setting: The metal only covers a portion of the girdle, leaving some facets exposed. This allows for more light to enter the stone, potentially increasing brilliance, while still offering good protection. Variations include half-bezel or three-quarters bezel settings.
• Threaded or Screw-in Top Setting: A less common variation where the bezel is threaded, allowing the stone to be secured by screwing a part of the setting against it.

How It's Made

Creating a top setting involves several meticulous steps:

1. Metal Preparation: A band or shank is formed, and the metal for the top setting is prepared, often by forming a cup or collar that matches the base of the gemstone.
2. Stone Fitting: The gemstone is carefully placed into the prepared setting.
3. Forming the Top: The jeweler uses specialized tools to carefully push and shape the metal upwards and over the girdle of the stone. For a full bezel, the metal is worked around the entire circumference. For a partial bezel, specific sections are manipulated.
4. Finishing: The metal edge is filed, sanded, and polished to create a smooth, clean finish that sits flush against the stone. The height and thickness of the metal rim are precisely controlled to balance security with aesthetics.

Buying Guide

When considering a ring with a top setting, keep these points in mind:

• Gemstone Type: This setting is excellent for softer stones (like opals, pearls, turquoise) or stones prone to chipping (like emeralds). It's also a good choice for cabochons or uniquely shaped gems.
• Metal Choice: The amount of metal used means the metal's color and finish will significantly impact the overall look. Consider how the metal color complements the gemstone.
• Coverage: Decide if you prefer the maximum security of a full bezel or the enhanced brilliance of a partial bezel.
• Design: Look at the shape and finish of the metal rim. Is it smooth and rounded, sharply defined, or decorative?
• Craftsmanship: Ensure the metal is smoothly finished, without sharp edges, and that it sits evenly around the stone.

Price Range & Value Factors

The price of a top setting itself is generally incorporated into the overall cost of the jewelry piece and is influenced by:

• Metal Type and Weight: Platinum, gold (14k, 18k), and palladium will vary in price. A heavier, more substantial setting will naturally cost more.
• Complexity of Design: Intricate detailing or filigree work on the bezel will increase labor costs.
• Gemstone: The primary value driver is typically the gemstone itself, its size, quality, and rarity.
• Brand and Retailer: Designer pieces or purchases from high-end retailers will command higher prices.

The top setting often adds to the perceived value due to its durability and the substantial amount of metal used.

Care and Maintenance

Top settings are generally low-maintenance:

• Cleaning: Gently clean with a soft brush, mild soap, and warm water. A full bezel can protect the stone from harsh cleaning solutions. Avoid ultrasonic cleaners for certain stones like opals or pearls.
• Inspection: Periodically check the metal rim to ensure it remains snug against the stone. If any looseness is detected, consult a jeweler.
• Polishing: The metal can be polished by a jeweler to restore its shine. Be aware that aggressive polishing on a bezel can slightly reduce its coverage over time.

Pros and Cons

Pros:

• Excellent Protection: Offers superior defense against chips, scratches, and impacts.
• Enhanced Durability: Ideal for everyday wear and active individuals.
• Good for Softer Gems: Protects fragile or porous gemstones.
• Security: Very secure; unlikely for the stone to fall out.
• Minimal Prongs: No prongs to snag on clothing or hair.
• Can Enhance Color: The surrounding metal can sometimes make a gemstone's color appear more intense.

Cons:

• Reduced Brilliance: A full bezel can significantly block light, reducing the sparkle compared to prong or halo settings.
• Less Light Dispersion: May not show off the fire and scintillation of brilliant-cut diamonds as effectively.
• More Metal Obscures Stone: A larger portion of the gemstone is covered by metal.
• Resizing Challenges: Resizing a ring with a full bezel can be more complex than with simpler settings.

Famous Examples

While specific famous rings are often identified by their setting style (like solitaire or pave), many significant pieces feature prominent bezel elements which function as a type of top setting, prioritizing security and a unified look. Examples include many vintage engagement rings and signet rings where the emphasis is on a smooth, contained gemstone surface.

Common Misconceptions

Misconception 1: Top settings are only for cheap jewelry. Reality: While cost-effective for certain materials, high-end jewelry often employs elegant bezel settings, especially for unique or antique stones, valuing their security and aesthetic. Many luxury brands utilize them for their modern designs.

Misconception 2: Bezel settings hide the gemstone too much. Reality: While a full bezel covers more, the design focuses on protecting the most vulnerable parts of the gem. Partial bezels offer a compromise, balancing protection with light exposure.

Related Terms

• Bezel Setting
• Collet Setting
• Gypsy Setting (a flush-set variation)
• Flush Setting
• Cabochon Setting
• Protective Setting

FAQs

What is the main advantage of a top setting?

The primary advantage is superior stone security and protection against damage, making it excellent for everyday wear.

Can a top setting be used for diamonds?

Yes, it can be used for diamonds, especially for engagement rings intended for very active individuals or those who prefer a lower profile. However, it may reduce the diamond's brilliance and fire compared to open prong settings.

Are top settings out of style?

No, top settings, particularly bezel settings, are timeless and have seen a resurgence in popularity due to their modern aesthetic, durability, and suitability for various gemstones.

Which is better, a full bezel or a partial bezel top setting?

The choice depends on priorities. A full bezel offers maximum protection, while a partial bezel allows more light into the stone for increased sparkle.