The Rubover Setting: A Secure and Stylish Choice

The rubover setting, also known as a bezel setting, is a classic and enduring jewelry technique where a thin band of metal is shaped to encircle and hold a gemstone in place. This method is highly regarded for its security, durability, and elegant aesthetic, making it a popular choice for a wide range of jewelry, from engagement rings to pendants and earrings.

Definition

A rubover setting involves completely surrounding the girdle (the widest part) of a gemstone with a rim of metal. The metal is then carefully pushed or hammered over the edges of the gemstone, creating a smooth, continuous surface. This contrasts with settings that use prongs to hold a stone, leaving more of the gem exposed.

Key Features

• Security: The primary advantage of a rubover setting is its exceptional security. The metal rim effectively locks the gemstone in place, greatly reducing the risk of it becoming dislodged or lost, even with vigorous activity.
• Protection: The metal border also provides a protective buffer around the gemstone, shielding the pavilion (the lower part of the gem) and the girdle from chips and scratches. This makes it an excellent choice for softer gemstones or for everyday wear.
• Smooth Finish: Rubover settings offer a sleek, streamlined appearance. There are no sharp edges or protruding parts, making the jewelry comfortable to wear and less likely to snag on clothing or other materials.
• Enhanced Brilliance (Sometimes): While it covers the very edge of the gemstone, a well-executed rubover setting can sometimes enhance perceived brilliance by creating a clean, defined edge and focusing the eye on the central stone. It can also make smaller stones appear larger and more substantial.
• Versatility: This setting style is compatible with almost any gemstone shape and size, and can be adapted to various metal types and finishes.

Origin and History

The technique of using metal to secure gemstones has been practiced for millennia, dating back to ancient civilizations like the Egyptians and Romans. However, the rubover or bezel setting as we recognize it today gained significant popularity during the Georgian and Victorian eras in jewelry. These periods saw a rise in intricate metalwork and a desire for jewelry that was both beautiful and durable. The rubover setting perfectly aligned with these ideals, offering a refined look that complemented the ornate designs of the time. Its practicality also made it suitable for everyday adornment, not just ceremonial pieces.

Types / Variations

While the core concept of a rubover setting remains the same, there are a few variations:

• Full Rubover: This is the classic style where the metal completely encircles the gemstone.
• Partial Rubover (or Half Bezel): In this variation, the metal only covers a portion of the gemstone s girdle, typically one half or a few strategically placed sections. This allows for more light to enter the stone and exposes more of the gem’s surface while still offering enhanced security compared to prong settings.
• Scalloped Rubover: This style features decorative notches or scallops along the metal rim, adding an ornamental touch to the otherwise smooth border.
• Milgrain Rubover: Milgrain detailing, which is a pattern of tiny beads applied along the edge of the metal, can be incorporated into a rubover setting for added texture and vintage charm.

How It's Made

Creating a rubover setting is a meticulous process that requires significant skill from a jeweler:

1. Layout and Measurement: The jeweler carefully measures the gemstone to be set.
2. Metal Forming: A strip of metal is cut and shaped to form a collar that precisely fits the girdle of the gemstone. The height and width of this collar are crucial for both security and aesthetics.
3. Fitting the Collar: The metal collar is then carefully fitted around the gemstone.
4. Pushing Over: Using specialized tools, the jeweler gently and evenly hammers or pushes the edges of the metal collar over the girdle of the gemstone. This process must be done with precision to avoid damaging the stone or creating an uneven edge.
5. Finishing: Once the stone is securely held, the jeweler polishes the metal to a smooth, high shine, ensuring a flawless finish. For partial rubovers, the metal is shaped to leave specific parts of the stone exposed.

Grading & Quality Standards

While there are no formal grading standards specifically for the rubover setting itself in the way there are for diamonds (like the 4Cs), the quality of the setting is judged by several factors:

• Metal Thickness: The metal should be thick enough to provide adequate security but not so thick that it overwhelms the gemstone.
• Evenness of the Rim: The metal edge should be smooth, uniform, and precisely follow the contour of the gemstone.
• Security of the Stone: The gemstone should be held firmly with no looseness or rocking.
• Symmetry: The setting should be symmetrical and balanced, enhancing the overall beauty of the piece.
• Finish: The metal should be expertly polished to a high shine, free from tool marks or imperfections.

The quality of the gemstone itself is graded according to established standards (e.g., diamond grading, sapphire grading).

Buying Guide

When considering a piece with a rubover setting, keep these points in mind:

• Purpose: Rubover settings are ideal for engagement rings for those seeking maximum security and a unique look, or for any piece intended for daily wear. They are also excellent for softer or more valuable gemstones that require extra protection.
• Gemstone Compatibility: While versatile, consider how the setting interacts with the specific gemstone. For diamonds, a full rubover can slightly reduce perceived sparkle compared to a well-executed prong setting, but offers unparalleled protection. For colored gemstones, especially those with unique inclusions or color zoning, a partial rubover might be preferred to showcase these features.
• Metal Choice: Rubover settings are available in all precious metals like platinum, gold (yellow, white, rose), and silver. The metal choice can significantly impact the overall look and durability. Platinum offers the highest durability and a bright white appearance, while gold provides warmth and variety in color.
• Style: Decide if you prefer a full rubover for ultimate security or a partial rubover for a balance of security and light performance. Consider decorative elements like milgrain or scalloping if you desire additional detail.
• Craftsmanship: Look for a setting where the metal is smoothly finished, perfectly conforms to the gemstone, and holds the stone securely without any visible gaps or unevenness.

Price Range & Value Factors

The price of a piece with a rubover setting is primarily influenced by:

• The Gemstone: The type, size, quality (cut, color, clarity, carat weight), and rarity of the gemstone are the biggest value drivers.
• The Metal: Platinum is generally more expensive than gold, which is more expensive than silver, due to material cost and labor involved. The weight of the metal in the setting also plays a role.
• Craftsmanship: A well-executed, high-quality rubover setting by a skilled artisan will command a higher price than a mass-produced or poorly finished one. Intricate details like milgrain or custom shaping add to the cost.
• Brand/Designer: Pieces from renowned jewelry houses or designers often come with a premium.

The setting itself adds to the overall cost of the piece, but it is generally considered a cost-effective option compared to complex prong settings, especially when considering the labor involved in creating a perfect, seamless finish.

Care and Maintenance

Rubover settings are relatively low-maintenance:

• Cleaning: Gently clean the jewelry with a soft brush, mild soap, and warm water. Avoid harsh chemicals or abrasive cleaners, which can damage the metal or gemstone. A professional cleaning and inspection by a jeweler every 6-12 months is recommended to ensure the setting remains secure.
• Inspection: Periodically check the metal rim for any signs of wear or loosening. While highly secure, extreme impacts could potentially cause damage. If you notice any issues, take the piece to a jeweler for repair.
• Storage: Store your jewelry in a soft pouch or a lined jewelry box to prevent scratches from other pieces.

Pros and Cons

Pros:

• Excellent Security: Significantly reduces the risk of losing the gemstone.
• Superior Protection: Guards the edges and pavilion of the gemstone from damage.
• Comfortable to Wear: Smooth, snag-free surface.
• Elegant and Timeless Aesthetics: Offers a clean, sophisticated look.
• Makes Smaller Stones Appear Larger: The surrounding metal can enhance the visual size of the gem.
• Ideal for Soft Gemstones: Provides necessary protection for delicate stones.

Cons:

• Reduced Light Performance (for some gems): Can cover the very edges of a diamond, potentially slightly diminishing its brilliance compared to optimally cut prong settings, especially in full rubovers.
• Difficult to Resize: Because the metal fully encircles the stone, resizing can be more complex and costly than with prong settings.
• More Metal Coverage: Less of the gemstone is visible.

Famous Examples

While specific famous rings are often identified by their center stone or designer, the rubover setting has been a staple in many historical and contemporary high jewelry pieces. Many antique jewelry pieces, particularly from the Georgian and Victorian eras, feature rubover settings for diamonds and colored gemstones. For instance, numerous Victorian-era mourning jewelry pieces utilized rubover settings for lockets containing hair or small portraits, showcasing the setting's ability to protect precious keepsakes. In modern times, many designers incorporate rubover settings into pendants and earrings for a sleek, contemporary look, and some bespoke engagement rings opt for a full or partial bezel for its unique blend of security and style.

Common Misconceptions

• It ruins sparkle: While a full rubover can slightly impact light entry at the very edge compared to an open-back prong setting, a well-executed rubover on a well-cut stone will still display beautiful scintillation. Furthermore, partial rubovers are designed to maximize light return while retaining security.
• It's only for old-fashioned jewelry: The rubover setting is timeless and has been reinterpreted by modern designers for contemporary aesthetics, appearing in minimalist, art deco, and even avant-garde pieces.
• It's a cheap setting: The quality of the craftsmanship required for a perfect rubover setting can be quite high, involving significant skill and precision.

Related Terms

• Bezel Setting
• Full Bezel
• Half Bezel
• Flush Setting (similar in its smooth profile but typically refers to stones set flush with the metal surface, often without a visible rim)
• Gypsy Setting (a type of flush setting where the stone is partially or fully sunk into the metal, with metal hammered around it)
• Burnish Setting (similar to flush setting, where metal is pushed over the stone's edge)

FAQs

What is the main advantage of a rubover setting?

The primary advantage is its exceptional security and protection for the gemstone.

Is a rubover setting good for an engagement ring?

Yes, it is an excellent choice for engagement rings, especially for those seeking durability, security for daily wear, or a less traditional aesthetic.

Can all gemstone shapes be set with a rubover setting?

Yes, rubover settings can be adapted to virtually any gemstone shape, including round, oval, emerald, princess, pear, and marquise.

Does a rubover setting make a diamond look smaller?

It can make the diamond appear slightly smaller or more compact due to the surrounding metal, but it can also make smaller stones look more substantial and provide a very clean, defined appearance.

Is it hard to clean a rubover setting?

No, rubover settings are generally easy to clean. Their smooth surface prevents dirt and grime from getting trapped easily.

What is the difference between a rubover and a bezel setting?

The terms are often used interchangeably. Rubover is sometimes used to emphasize the action of the metal being pushed over the stone's edge, while bezel is the general term for a rim of metal surrounding a gemstone.