The Princess Cut Diamond: A Modern Marvel of Brilliance

The Princess cut, also known as the square modified brilliant cut, stands out in the world of diamond shapes for its exceptional sparkle and contemporary aesthetic. It offers a captivating blend of geometric precision and dazzling fire, making it a popular choice for engagement rings and other fine jewelry.

Definition

The Princess cut is a square or rectangular shaped diamond featuring numerous facets, typically between 49 and 74, depending on the cutter’s style. Its defining characteristic is its brilliance, which rivals that of the round brilliant cut, due to its intricate faceting pattern designed to maximize light return. While typically square, it can also be found in a rectangular form, often referred to as a ‘long’ Princess cut.

Key Features

• Shape: Square or rectangular outline with sharp, un-cut corners.
• Faceting: A modified brilliant cut, meaning its facets are arranged to mimic the sparkle of a round brilliant, but adapted for its square shape. This often includes a double-tiered crown and a complex pavilion.
• Brilliance: High light return and exceptional sparkle, comparable to a round brilliant cut.
• Fire: Displays significant flashes of color (fire) due to its faceting.
• Scintillation: Exhibits lively, dynamic flashes of light (scintillation) as the diamond moves.
• Corner Protection: The un-cut corners, while contributing to its unique look, can be more susceptible to chipping if not set properly.

Origin and History

The Princess cut emerged in the 1960s, developed by Arpad Nagy in London. However, its modern iteration, the square modified brilliant cut, was perfected in the early 1980s by Betzalel Ambar and Israel Itzkowitz. They refined the faceting pattern to maximize brilliance and fire, creating the shape we recognize today. Its popularity surged in the 1990s and has remained strong ever since, particularly for those seeking an alternative to the traditional round diamond.

Types / Variations

While the classic Princess cut is square, variations exist primarily in the aspect ratio and faceting patterns:

• Square Princess Cut: The most common type, with length and width nearly equal.
• Rectangular Princess Cut (Long Princess Cut): Features a noticeable difference between length and width, creating a more elongated appearance.
• Variations in Faceting: Some Princess cuts have more facets or slightly different facet arrangements, which can influence their brilliance and fire. This is often a signature of the cutter.

How It's Made

Creating a Princess cut diamond is a precise art. The process typically begins with a rough diamond that is often triangular or irregularly shaped. The cutter must skillfully plan the facet layout to maximize carat weight retention while achieving optimal brilliance and fire. The key steps involve:

1. Planning: Analyzing the rough diamond to determine the best way to cut it, aiming for symmetry and minimal waste.
2. Blocking: Cutting the main outline of the diamond, establishing its square or rectangular shape and the girdle.
3. Bruting: Rounding the girdle edge.
4. Faceting: Meticulously cutting and polishing the numerous facets on the crown (top) and pavilion (bottom) to achieve the desired brilliance and fire. The complexity of the pavilion facets is crucial for its signature sparkle.
5. Polishing: Final polishing of all facets.

The goal is to create a diamond that captures and reflects light effectively, with sharp, well-defined facets.

Grading & Quality Standards

The quality of a Princess cut diamond is assessed using the standard 4 Cs: Cut, Color, Clarity, and Carat Weight. However, for Princess cuts, the 'Cut' quality has unique considerations:

• Cut: While there isn't an official GIA grading scale for Princess cuts like there is for round brilliants, reputable labs may offer cut assessments. Key factors include the depth percentage, table percentage, and the symmetry of the facets. A well-cut Princess diamond should have excellent light return and minimal light leakage. Look for a depth typically between 65-75% and a table width between 65-75% for good balance, though variations exist.
• Color: Princess cuts tend to show color more readily than round brilliants due to their internal light reflection. Therefore, a higher color grade (closer to colorless) is often preferred, typically G-I or better for most buyers.
• Clarity: Given the brilliance of the cut, minor inclusions can sometimes be masked. However, significant inclusions, especially those near the corners or on the table facet, should be avoided. Aim for VS1 or VS2 clarity for a good balance of clarity and price.
• Carat Weight: This refers to the diamond's weight. Princess cuts can appear slightly smaller face-up than round diamonds of the same carat weight due to their deeper pavilion and squared-off corners.

Buying Guide

When purchasing a Princess cut diamond, consider the following:

• Shape Preference: Decide between a perfectly square cut or a slightly rectangular one. Measure the length and width to determine the aspect ratio. A 1.00 aspect ratio is square, while higher numbers indicate a more rectangular shape.
• Brilliance: Look for a diamond that displays vibrant sparkle. Examine it in different lighting conditions to assess its light performance.
• Corners: The sharp corners, while characteristic, are vulnerable. Ensure they are not chipped or abraded. Consider protective settings.
• Setting Style: Four-prong or six-prong solitaire settings are common and offer good protection. Bezel settings provide maximum corner protection. Halo settings can also enhance the diamond's appearance and protect its edges.
• Certification: Always look for a diamond with a grading report from a reputable gemological laboratory (e.g., GIA, AGS) that specifies the shape and provides details on its characteristics.
• Budget: Princess cuts are generally more affordable per carat than round brilliant diamonds of comparable quality because they can be cut from rough diamonds with less waste.

Price Range & Value Factors

Princess cut diamonds typically offer excellent value for money compared to round brilliants. Their pricing is influenced by the same 4 Cs, but with nuances:

• Cut Quality: A well-proportioned Princess cut with excellent brilliance commands a higher price.
• Color: Diamonds with higher color grades (D-F) are significantly more expensive than those with faint yellow tints (J-K).
• Clarity: Internally Flawless (IF) to Very Slightly Included (VS) grades impact price, with higher clarity grades being pricier.
• Carat Weight: Larger diamonds are rarer and thus more expensive per carat.
• Proportions: Ideal proportions maximizing sparkle will be more valuable.
• Fluorescence: Strong fluorescence can sometimes make a diamond appear hazy or alter its color, potentially affecting value.

Generally, Princess cuts can be 20-40% less expensive per carat than round brilliant diamonds of similar quality, making them an attractive option for those wanting a larger or higher-quality diamond within a specific budget.

Care and Maintenance

Caring for a Princess cut diamond involves regular cleaning and mindful wear:

• Cleaning: Clean your jewelry regularly with a soft brush, warm water, and mild dish soap. Rinse thoroughly and dry with a lint-free cloth. For a deeper clean, an ultrasonic cleaner can be used, but consult a jeweler if the diamond has any significant inclusions or if the setting is delicate.
• Protection: Due to their sharp corners, Princess cut diamonds are more prone to chipping than round diamonds. Avoid wearing them during strenuous activities, contact sports, or when exposed to harsh chemicals.
• Inspection: Have your jewelry professionally inspected periodically to check the security of the setting and the condition of the diamond, especially the corners.
• Storage: Store your Princess cut jewelry separately from other pieces to prevent scratching or damage.

Pros and Cons

Pros:

• Brilliance: Offers exceptional sparkle, comparable to round brilliants.
• Value: Generally more affordable per carat than round diamonds.
• Unique Shape: Provides a modern, geometric alternative to traditional shapes.
• Versatility: Works well in various settings, from solitaire to pave.
• Excellent for Engagement Rings: Its sparkle and modern appeal make it a popular choice.

Cons:

• Corner Vulnerability: The sharp corners are susceptible to chipping and damage.
• Depth: Can appear smaller face-up than a round diamond of the same carat weight.
• Color Sensitivity: Tends to show color more than round diamonds.
• Cut Grading Limitations: No universal GIA grading system specifically for its cut quality.

Famous Examples

While many exquisite Princess cut diamonds exist, some notable examples include:

• The 'Celebrity' Diamond: A famous large Princess cut diamond, known for its exceptional clarity and color.
• Various Royal and Celebrity Engagement Rings: Many high-profile figures have chosen Princess cut diamonds for their engagement rings, contributing to their popularity. The precise details of many famous Princess cuts are not widely publicized, but their presence in significant pieces of jewelry underscores their desirability.

Common Misconceptions

• Princess cuts are always square: While most are square, rectangular variations are also common and referred to as Princess cuts.
• They are less brilliant than round diamonds: Modern Princess cuts are designed to maximize brilliance, often rivaling or even surpassing round brilliants in light performance for their shape.
• They are always cheaper: While generally more affordable per carat than round diamonds, exceptionally high-quality Princess cuts (e.g., D color, IF clarity, ideal proportions) can still be very expensive.
• Their corners are always weak: While vulnerable, proper setting and careful wear significantly mitigate the risk of chipping.

Related Terms

• Square Modified Brilliant Cut
• Gemstone Faceting
• Diamond Brilliance
• Diamond Fire
• Diamond Scintillation
• Diamond Cut Quality
• Engagement Ring Settings
• Fancy Diamond Shapes

FAQs

What is the best depth percentage for a Princess cut diamond?

A common range for good to excellent Princess cut diamonds is between 65% and 75%. Deeper or shallower cuts can lead to light leakage, reducing brilliance.

Are Princess cut diamonds good for engagement rings?

Yes, they are an excellent choice for engagement rings due to their stunning brilliance, modern appeal, and value. However, their sharp corners require careful setting for protection.

How do I choose between a Princess cut and a Round Brilliant cut?

Consider your priorities. If maximum sparkle and traditional appeal are key, the round brilliant is a strong contender. If you prefer a modern, geometric look with comparable sparkle and potentially better value, the Princess cut is an excellent alternative.

Do Princess cut diamonds show inclusions easily?

The brilliance of a Princess cut can help mask minor inclusions, especially those located away from the center. However, large or poorly placed inclusions can still be noticeable. Aiming for VS or higher clarity is generally recommended.

Are Princess cut diamonds more expensive than other fancy shapes?

Compared to round brilliants, yes, they are typically less expensive per carat for comparable quality. Compared to other fancy shapes like cushions or ovals, their price can vary widely based on market demand and cutting yields, but they often represent good value.