Diamond Cuts & Gem Shapes

The Oval Brilliant Cut Diamond

The Oval Brilliant cut is a popular and elegant choice for diamond jewelry, celebrated for its sophisticated silhouette and impressive sparkle. It combines the brilliance of a round cut with a graceful elongated shape, making it a versatile option for various jewelry designs.

Definition

The Oval Brilliant cut is a modified round brilliant cut. It features 58 facets (like a standard round brilliant, though this can vary slightly) arranged in a way that maximizes light reflection and dispersion within its elliptical outline. The traditional ratio of length to width is approximately 1.5:1, but this can be adjusted to suit personal preference.

Key Features

Brilliance: Like the round brilliant, the oval cut is designed to reflect light internally and externally, resulting in exceptional sparkle and fire.
Elongated Shape: Its oval form offers a larger surface area for its carat weight compared to a round diamond, often appearing bigger. This shape can also create an illusion of longer, more slender fingers when set in rings.
Fewer Bowtie Effects: While some bowtie effect (a dark area in the center of the stone) is inherent in elongated cuts, the oval cut generally exhibits a less pronounced bowtie than other fancy shapes like the marquise or pear.
Versatility: The oval shape complements a wide range of jewelry styles, from classic to modern, and works well in various settings like solitaires, halos, and three-stone arrangements.

Origin and History

The Oval Brilliant cut was developed in the 1960s by Lazare Kaplan, a master diamond cutter. He sought to create a cut that retained the fire and brilliance of the round brilliant while offering a larger appearance and a more unique shape. His innovation was a significant contribution to the world of diamond cutting.

How It's Made

The creation of an Oval Brilliant cut diamond involves precise cutting and polishing techniques. Skilled artisans start with a rough diamond and carefully plan the angles and placement of each of the 58 facets. The process aims to optimize light return, minimize waste, and achieve the desired proportions and symmetry. Modern laser technology aids in achieving extreme precision.

Grading & Quality Standards

The quality of an Oval Brilliant cut diamond is assessed using the same four Cs as other diamonds: Cut, Color, Clarity, and Carat Weight.

Cut: While the 'cut' grade for oval brilliants isn't as standardized as for round brilliants, ideal proportions contribute significantly to its sparkle. Look for well-proportioned oval cuts that minimize the bowtie effect and maximize brilliance.
Color: Colorless to near-colorless grades (D-J) are generally preferred for oval diamonds to maximize their perceived brilliance.
Clarity: Aim for clarity grades where inclusions are not visible to the naked eye (SI1 and above are often good choices, but VVS or VS are ideal).
Carat Weight: This refers to the diamond's size. The oval shape’s ability to appear larger for its weight can influence purchasing decisions.

Buying Guide

When purchasing an Oval Brilliant cut diamond, consider the following:

Ratio: Decide on your preferred length-to-width ratio. A common ratio is 1.5:1, but you might prefer something closer to 1.3:1 for a slightly rounder look or 1.7:1 for a more elongated appearance.
Bowtie Effect: Examine the diamond for the bowtie effect. While some is expected, a very prominent or distracting bowtie can detract from the stone's beauty. Look for oval cuts with minimal and well-distributed darkness in the center.
Symmetry: Ensure the diamond is symmetrical, meaning both sides of the oval are mirror images of each other.
Setting: Consider how the setting will complement the oval shape. Four-prong settings can help protect the pointed ends, while six-prong settings offer enhanced security and a more substantial look. Halo settings can make the oval appear even larger and more brilliant.

Price Range & Value Factors

The price of an Oval Brilliant cut diamond is influenced by the same factors as other diamonds: the four Cs, fluorescence, and the reputation of the retailer. Generally, oval cuts are more affordable per carat than round brilliant cuts due to less rough diamond wastage during the cutting process. A well-cut oval diamond offers excellent value, providing significant size and sparkle for its price.

Care and Maintenance

Oval Brilliant cut diamonds require the same care as other diamonds:

Cleaning: Regularly clean your diamond jewelry with a soft brush, warm water, and mild dish soap. Avoid harsh chemicals or abrasive cleaners.
Storage: Store your oval diamond jewelry separately to prevent scratching other pieces.
Professional Inspection: Have your jewelry professionally inspected and cleaned periodically by a jeweler to ensure the setting is secure and the stone is free of debris.

Pros and Cons

Pros:

Exceptional Brilliance: Offers sparkle comparable to a round brilliant.
Appears Larger: Its elongated shape makes it look bigger than a round diamond of the same carat weight.
Flattering Shape: Can elongate the finger, creating a slimming effect.
More Affordable: Often less expensive per carat than round brilliants.
Versatile: Suits many jewelry styles and settings.

Cons:

Bowtie Effect: Can exhibit a bowtie effect, although usually less pronounced than in other elongated shapes.
Durability of Points: The pointed ends are more susceptible to chipping if not protected by a setting.
Less Standardized Grading: Cut grading is not as universally standardized as for round brilliants.

Famous Examples

Several famous engagement rings feature oval-cut diamonds, highlighting the shape's enduring appeal:

Kim Kardashian's Engagement Ring: Features a large, cushion-cut, but often mistaken for an oval, 15-carat oval diamond.
Serena Williams' Engagement Ring: A stunning 12-carat oval diamond surrounded by a diamond halo.
Ariana Grande's Engagement Ring: A sizable oval diamond set asymmetrically with a pearl.

Common Misconceptions

One common misconception is that oval diamonds are less durable than round diamonds. While the pointed ends require careful setting, the diamond itself is as hard as any other diamond. Another misconception is that all oval diamonds have a significant bowtie; a well-cut oval can minimize this effect.

Related Terms

Related terms include: Fancy Shape, Diamond Cut, Brilliant Cut, Elongated Diamond, Diamond Ratio, Bowtie Effect, Lazare Kaplan.

FAQs

What is the ideal ratio for an oval diamond?

The most popular ratio is around 1.5:1, but personal preference dictates the ideal ratio, ranging from 1.3:1 to 1.7:1.

Does an oval diamond show more color than a round diamond?

Due to its larger surface area and facet arrangement, an oval diamond might show color slightly more than a round diamond of the same color grade. Therefore, selecting an oval in the G-H or even I color range can still appear white.

Are oval diamonds more expensive than round diamonds?

No, oval diamonds are typically less expensive per carat than round brilliant diamonds because the cutting process results in less waste of the original rough diamond.

How can I minimize the bowtie effect in an oval diamond?

Choosing an oval diamond with superior cut proportions and symmetry is key. Sometimes, a slightly deeper cut or a different facet arrangement can help reduce the appearance of the bowtie.