The Marquise Setting: A Majestic Embrace for Your Gemstone

The marquise setting, also known as the navette setting, is a distinctive and elegant ring setting that cradles a gemstone, most commonly a diamond, in a unique boat-like or eye-shaped form. Its name derives from the French word for 'little ship', hinting at its elongated shape with pointed ends. This setting is celebrated for its ability to maximize the perceived size of a stone and create a regal, sophisticated aesthetic.

Definition

The marquise setting is a type of prong setting specifically designed for the marquise cut gemstone. It features two prongs that secure the pointed tips of the marquise stone, while additional prongs, often four, hold the curved sides. The setting is engineered to protect the delicate points of the marquise cut, which are particularly susceptible to chipping or breaking.

Key Features

• Elongated Shape: The hallmark of the marquise setting is its long, symmetrical shape with pointed ends, resembling an eye or a boat.
• Point Protection: Specially designed prongs, often V-shaped or claw-like, are used to safeguard the vulnerable points of the gemstone.
• Maximizes Brilliance and Size: The cut of the marquise stone, combined with how it is held, tends to create an illusion of a larger carat weight and can enhance its light reflection and sparkle.
• Versatile Aesthetics: It can appear dramatic and bold or delicate and vintage, depending on the overall ring design and metal choice.
• Finger Elongation: When worn, the elongated shape of the marquise stone set in this style can make the wearer's finger appear longer and slimmer.

Origin and History

The marquise cut, and by extension its setting, is said to have been conceived in the 18th century by King Louis XV of France. Legend has it that he commissioned a jeweler to create a gemstone cut that resembled the perfect lips of his mistress, the Marquise de Pompadour. While the exact historical accuracy is debated, the style gained significant popularity during the Georgian and Victorian eras, periods known for their elaborate and ornate jewelry designs. The marquise setting became a favored choice for engagement rings and statement pieces, embodying romance and nobility.

Types / Variations

While the core principle of the marquise setting remains consistent, variations exist primarily in the number and style of prongs used to secure the stone:

• Six-Prong Marquise Setting: This is the most common and secure variation. It features two protective prongs at each tip and two additional prongs along the sides to further secure the gemstone.
• Four-Prong Marquise Setting: A simpler design, this variation typically uses two prongs at the tips and two more strategically placed along the sides. It offers a slightly more open view of the stone but may provide less tip protection.
• Bezel-Set Marquise: While less common for marquise stones due to the risk of obscuring the points, a partial or full bezel can sometimes be used, especially in more contemporary or alternative designs. This offers excellent protection but can slightly reduce light entering the stone.
• Halo Marquise Setting: In this popular variation, smaller accent stones surround the center marquise gemstone, enhancing its size and brilliance and adding a vintage or glamorous feel.

How It's Made

Creating a marquise setting involves meticulous craftsmanship:

1. Casting or Fabrication: The basic structure of the setting is either cast from a mold or fabricated by hand from metal wire.
2. Pre-Polishing: The metal setting is polished to a high sheen before the gemstone is set.
3. Gemstone Placement: The marquise gemstone is carefully placed into the setting, ensuring it sits correctly within the intended shape.
4. Prong Bending: Jewelers carefully bend the metal prongs over the edges and tips of the gemstone. For marquise settings, this often involves creating specific V-notches or curved prongs to perfectly cradle the pointed ends, offering maximum protection.
5. Securing the Stone: The prongs are meticulously tightened to hold the gemstone securely without exerting excessive pressure that could cause damage.
6. Final Polishing: The entire piece is polished again to bring out the luster of the metal and ensure a smooth finish, removing any marks from the setting process.

Grading & Quality Standards

While there are no specific grading standards for the setting itself, the quality of a marquise setting is judged by several factors:

• Metal Quality: The purity and type of metal used (e.g., 14k gold, 18k gold, platinum) affect durability and value.
• Craftsmanship: The precision of the prong work, the smoothness of the finish, and the overall symmetry of the setting are indicators of quality. Well-executed prongs will hold the stone securely and evenly, without sharp edges or visible tool marks.
• Durability: A well-made setting should be robust enough for daily wear, with prongs that are unlikely to snag or bend easily.
• Gemstone Fit: The setting should perfectly complement the dimensions of the gemstone, holding it without gaps or excessive strain.

Buying Guide

When considering a marquise setting, keep these points in mind:

• Stone Protection: Prioritize settings with excellent tip protection for the marquise gemstone, as the points are the most vulnerable part. V-prongs are highly recommended.
• Metal Choice: Platinum offers superior durability and a bright white appearance, ideal for showcasing diamonds. Gold (yellow, white, rose) is a popular and more affordable option.
• Ring Style: Consider the overall design. A plain band allows the marquise stone to be the star, while accent stones, filigree, or milgrain detailing can add vintage charm or extra sparkle.
• Proportions: The length-to-width ratio of the marquise stone itself is crucial for its aesthetic appeal. A common ratio is around 2:1, but personal preference varies.
• Comfort and Practicality: Ensure the setting doesn't have sharp edges or sit too high, which could lead to snagging or discomfort during daily activities.

Price Range & Value Factors

The price of a marquise setting is influenced by several factors:

• Metal Type and Weight: Platinum is generally more expensive than gold. The amount of metal used also contributes to the cost.
• Complexity of Design: Intricate detailing, the addition of smaller stones (like in a halo setting), or custom work will increase the price.
• Brand and Retailer: Designer settings or those from high-end jewelers will command higher prices than mass-produced options.
• Craftsmanship: Hand-fabricated settings or those with exceptional detail and finishing often cost more.

The primary value driver for a ring with a marquise setting is, of course, the center gemstone itself (its carat weight, color, clarity, and cut). The setting enhances and protects this value.

Care and Maintenance

Proper care ensures the longevity and beauty of your marquise setting and gemstone:

• Regular Cleaning: Gently clean the ring at home with a soft brush, mild dish soap, and warm water. Avoid harsh chemicals or ultrasonic cleaners, especially if the stone has inclusions or treatments.
• Professional Inspection: Have your ring inspected by a jeweler at least once a year to check the security of the prongs and the overall condition of the setting.
• Avoid Impact: While the marquise setting offers protection, extreme impacts can still damage the stone or bend the prongs. Remove rings before engaging in strenuous activities or sports.
• Storage: Store your ring separately in a soft pouch or jewelry box to prevent scratching against other pieces.
• Re-tipping Prongs: Over time, prongs can wear down. If they appear thin or loose, have them re-tipped by a professional jeweler to ensure the stone remains secure.

Pros and Cons

Pros:

• Elegant and Unique: Offers a distinctive and sophisticated look.
• Enhances Size Perception: The elongated shape can make the gemstone appear larger than other cuts of the same carat weight.
• Finger Flattery: Tends to elongate the appearance of the finger.
• Good Light Performance: When well-cut, marquise stones can exhibit excellent brilliance and fire.
• Secure Option: With proper prong design (especially V-prongs), the pointed ends are well-protected.

Cons:

• Prong Vulnerability: The pointed tips are inherently more susceptible to damage than rounded cuts, requiring careful prong design and wear.
• Prong Snagging: The pointed ends and potentially prominent prongs can sometimes snag on clothing or hair.
• Less Common: Not as widely available as round or princess cuts, potentially limiting selection.
• Requires Careful Cutting: The beauty of a marquise cut is highly dependent on precise faceting; a poorly cut stone can look dull or have a distracting 'bow-tie' effect.

Famous Examples

The marquise cut has graced some notable pieces of jewelry throughout history:

• The Star of Sierra Leone Diamond: While not exclusively set in a marquise setting, this massive 969.5-carat diamond was cut into several smaller stones, some of which are believed to have featured marquise cuts, showcasing the scale and brilliance possible with this shape.
• Elizabeth Taylor's Marquise Diamond Ring: While perhaps most famous for her enormous Asscher cut ring, Elizabeth Taylor also owned and wore other significant diamond jewelry, including pieces featuring the marquise cut, celebrated for their dramatic flair.

Common Misconceptions

• All Marquise Settings are Equal: This is untrue. The quality of craftsmanship, the number and design of prongs (especially for tip protection), and the metal used significantly impact the setting's durability and aesthetic.
• Marquise Cut Stones are Always Large: While the cut can make stones appear larger, marquise diamonds are available in all carat weights.
• The Setting Obscures the Stone: A well-executed marquise setting, especially with minimal prongs, allows ample light to enter the stone, maximizing its sparkle. Bezel settings are the exception and do obscure more of the stone.

Related Terms

• Navette Setting
• Prong Setting
• V-Prong Setting
• Gemstone Setting
• Marquise Cut Diamond
• Engagement Ring Settings
• Jewelry Mountings

FAQs

What is the best metal for a marquise setting?

Platinum is an excellent choice for marquise settings due to its durability and bright white color, which complements diamonds beautifully. High-quality gold (14k or 18k) in yellow, white, or rose is also a popular and durable option.

How do I protect the points of my marquise diamond?

The most effective way to protect the points is by choosing a setting with V-shaped prongs at each tip. These prongs guard the delicate facets from chips and damage.

Can a marquise setting be worn every day?

Yes, a marquise setting can be worn daily, provided it is well-constructed with secure prongs and the wearer is mindful of potential impacts. Regular inspection and maintenance are recommended.

What is the 'bow-tie' effect in a marquise diamond?

The 'bow-tie' effect is a shadow or dark area visible in the center of many marquise and other elongated cut diamonds. A well-cut diamond will minimize this effect, but it is a natural characteristic of the cut. Some level of bow-tie is generally accepted.

Is a marquise setting more expensive than others?

The setting itself is typically comparable in price to other prong settings, such as solitaire settings for round diamonds, assuming similar metal and craftsmanship. The overall cost of the ring will largely depend on the center gemstone and any additional embellishments.