Marquise Setting

The marquise setting is a distinctive and elegant style of ring setting, primarily used to showcase gemstones, especially diamonds. Characterized by its elongated shape with pointed ends, the marquise cut itself is a modified brilliant cut. The setting is designed to securely hold this unique shape while maximizing its brilliance and perceived size. Understanding the marquise setting involves looking at its structure, how it interacts with the gemstone, its historical context, and practical considerations for wear and care.

Definition

A marquise setting refers to the method by which a marquise-cut gemstone is secured within a piece of jewelry, most commonly a ring. The marquise cut is known for its football-like shape, tapering to a fine point at each end, often with a traditional nine-facet design on the crown and ten on the pavilion. The setting must be carefully crafted to protect these delicate points from chipping or breaking, a common vulnerability of this particular cut. It involves prongs or bezels that hold the gemstone in place, leaving the crown and facets open to light.

Key Features

• Gemstone Protection: The primary function of a marquise setting is to hold the marquise-cut stone securely. Special attention is paid to the pointed ends, which are prone to damage.
• Light Performance: Like other brilliant cuts, the marquise cut is designed to reflect light. The setting is designed to allow maximum light entry to the pavilion of the stone, enhancing its sparkle and fire.
• Illusion of Size: The elongated shape of the marquise cut makes the gemstone appear larger than stones of equivalent carat weight in other cuts. The setting complements this by often being slender, further emphasizing the stone's length.
• Aesthetic Appeal: The marquise shape is often associated with elegance and royalty. The setting can be simple or elaborate, complementing various jewelry styles. It can also create an elongating effect on the finger.
• Point Protection: This is a critical feature. Settings often incorporate small V-shaped prongs or a full bezel around the points to shield them from impact.

Origin and History

The marquise cut, and by extension its setting, is believed to have originated in France during the reign of King Louis XIV in the 18th century. Legend has it that the cut was designed to resemble the shape of the lips of his favorite mistress, the Marquise de Montespan. While this is a romantic tale, the cut did gain popularity among European aristocracy during the rococo period, known for its ornate and elaborate styles. The settings of the era would have been designed to match these opulent tastes, often featuring intricate metalwork and accompanying smaller gemstones.

Types / Variations

Marquise settings can vary in how they hold the stone and their overall design:

• Prong Settings: This is the most common type. It uses metal prongs to grip the girdle of the gemstone. For marquise stones, these often include V-prong settings at the pointed ends for added protection. The number of prongs can vary, typically from four to six or more, depending on the desired look and security.
• Bezel Settings: A bezel setting fully or partially encircles the gemstone with a thin band of metal. For a marquise cut, a full bezel provides maximum protection to the entire stone, including the points, making it a very secure option. A partial bezel may only cover the sides or specific points.
• Halo Settings: In a halo setting, the marquise stone is surrounded by a circle of smaller accent stones (like pavé diamonds). The halo can enhance the perceived size and brilliance of the center stone and also offer some protection to the edges of the marquise.
• Tension Settings: Less common for marquise cuts due to the need for extreme security at the points, tension settings hold the stone in place using the tension of the metal band itself. This style is generally not recommended for marquise cuts unless specifically engineered for it.
• Channel Settings: While not typically used for a single center marquise stone, channel settings can be incorporated into bands or side designs featuring smaller marquise-cut stones set side-by-side.

How It's Made

Crafting a marquise setting requires precision, especially concerning the delicate points of the gemstone. Jewelers typically:

1. Measure the Gemstone: Exact measurements of the marquise gemstone are taken, paying close attention to the length, width, and the angles of the points.
2. Design the Setting: Based on the measurements and desired style, the setting is designed. For prong settings, the number and placement of prongs are determined. For bezels, the exact contour of the metal band is planned. V-prongs are often integrated into the design for the points.
3. Fabricate the Setting: The setting is either cast using a mold or meticulously hand-fabricated from a metal wire. Hand fabrication allows for more customization and precision, especially for unique gemstone shapes.
4. Mount the Gemstone: The marquise gemstone is carefully placed into the setting. For prong settings, the prongs are gently bent over the girdle of the stone. For bezels, the metal is carefully pushed and hammered around the edges of the gemstone to secure it. The V-prongs at the points are crucial for locking the stone in place and preventing damage.
5. Finishing Touches: The setting is polished, cleaned, and any additional embellishments (like pavé diamonds or engraving) are completed.

Grading & Quality Standards

While there are no specific grading standards solely for the setting itself, its quality is assessed based on general jewelry-making principles:

• Metal Quality: The type and purity of the metal used (e.g., 14k gold, 18k gold, platinum) are paramount.
• Craftsmanship: Look for smooth, well-finished surfaces, even prong tips, and a secure hold on the gemstone without obstructing its brilliance unnecessarily. The prongs should be uniform and neatly finished.
• Gemstone Security: The most critical aspect is how well the setting protects the gemstone, especially its vulnerable points. A well-executed marquise setting will feel secure and look balanced.

Buying Guide

When purchasing a marquise setting, consider the following:

• Style and Occasion: Is it for an engagement ring, a fashion ring, or another piece of jewelry? The setting style should match the intended use and personal preference.
• Protection Level: For everyday wear, especially an engagement ring, prioritize settings that offer good protection for the points, such as V-prongs or a bezel.
• Metal Choice: Platinum and white gold offer a bright complement to diamonds and other white gemstones. Yellow and rose gold offer warmer tones. Consider durability and hypoallergenic properties.
• Complementary Stones: The marquise setting can be enhanced with smaller diamonds or other gemstones set along the band or in a halo. Ensure these complement the center stone and setting.
• Finger Shape: The elongated shape of the marquise cut and setting can make fingers appear longer and slimmer. Consider how the length of the stone will sit on the finger.

Price Range & Value Factors

The price of a marquise setting is influenced by several factors:

• Metal Type and Weight: Platinum is more expensive than gold. The amount of metal used also affects the price.
• Complexity of Design: Intricate details, custom engraving, or the inclusion of numerous small accent stones will increase the cost.
• Brand and Retailer: High-end jewelers or designer brands will typically command higher prices due to reputation and perceived quality.
• Setting Style: While the setting itself is a component, more secure or elaborate styles like a diamond halo might add to the overall cost compared to a simple solitaire prong setting.

Care and Maintenance

Proper care ensures the longevity and beauty of a marquise setting:

• Regular Cleaning: Clean the ring regularly with a soft brush, mild soap, and warm water to remove dirt and oils that can dull the stone's sparkle. Avoid harsh chemicals.
• Professional Inspection: Have the setting checked by a jeweler at least once a year to ensure prongs are tight and the stone is secure.
• Avoid Impact: Be mindful of the pointed ends of the marquise stone. Avoid activities that could lead to bumps or impacts, such as sports or heavy manual labor, especially if the setting offers minimal point protection.
• Storage: When not worn, store the ring in a soft-lined jewelry box or pouch to prevent scratches and damage from other jewelry.

Pros and Cons

Pros

• Elegant and Unique: The marquise shape is distinctive and offers a sophisticated look.
• Maximizes Brilliance: Designed to capture and reflect light, resulting in significant sparkle.
• Appears Larger: The elongated shape often makes the gemstone look bigger than its actual carat weight.
• Flattering on Fingers: The shape can create an illusion of longer, slimmer fingers.
• Versatile: Can be set in various styles, from solitaire to halo, and works well with different metals.

Cons

• Vulnerable Points: The pointed ends are susceptible to chipping and breakage if not properly protected.
• Can Catch on Fabrics: The pointed ends can sometimes snag on clothing or other materials.
• Requires Specific Setting: Needs a setting designed to protect its unique shape, especially the points.
• Uneven Lighting: In some settings, the two points of the marquise might not receive as much light as the center, potentially leading to darker or 'empty' areas known as bow-tie effects.

Famous Examples

The marquise cut has graced several notable pieces of jewelry:

• The Lesotho Promise: A famous 76-carat diamond, internally flawless and D color, which was originally cut from a larger rough diamond. Its setting often emphasizes its impressive size and brilliance.
• The Star of Yekaterinburg: This large diamond, weighing over 179 carats in its rough state, yielded several cuts, including a significant marquise that was part of a historical collection.
• The Kaiser Diamond: A 110.33-carat diamond that was cut into a marquise shape. It was famously owned by Emperor Wilhelm II of Germany.

Common Misconceptions

Misconception 1: All marquise settings offer equal protection.
Reality: The level of protection varies significantly based on the type of setting. V-prongs and bezels offer superior protection to the points compared to simple prong settings with no specific point guards.

Misconception 2: The marquise cut is fragile and not suitable for everyday wear.
Reality: While the points are vulnerable, with a well-chosen protective setting (like V-prongs or a bezel) and mindful wear, a marquise stone can be durable enough for daily wear, especially in engagement rings.

Misconception 3: The bow-tie effect is a flaw.
Reality: A subtle bow-tie effect, a shadow resembling a bowtie in the center of the stone, is a natural characteristic of the marquise cut due to its facet structure. While a very pronounced bow-tie can indicate poor cutting, a slight one is often considered normal and even desirable by some.

Related Terms

• Marquise Cut
• Prong Setting
• Bezel Setting
• V-Prong Setting
• Gemstone Setting
• Ring Setting
• Jewelry Design
• Gemstone Protection

FAQs

What is the best type of setting for a marquise diamond?

The best setting for a marquise diamond prioritizes protection for the pointed ends. V-prong settings, where small V-shaped metal pieces are placed at each point, offer excellent protection. A full bezel setting, which encircles the entire stone, also provides maximum security.

Are marquise settings good for engagement rings?

Yes, marquise settings can be excellent for engagement rings, offering a unique and elegant look. However, it is crucial to choose a setting that provides adequate protection for the stone's vulnerable points, especially for daily wear.

How do I clean a marquise setting?

Clean a marquise setting with a soft toothbrush, warm water, and mild dish soap. Gently scrub the gemstone and setting, rinse thoroughly, and dry with a lint-free cloth. For deeper cleaning, professional ultrasonic cleaning might be an option, but consult your jeweler first.

Can a marquise stone be set East-West?

Yes, a marquise stone can be set East-West, meaning the longer axis of the stone runs parallel to the band of the ring rather than perpendicular to it. This is a popular style choice that changes the orientation and aesthetic of the ring.