The Marquise Brilliant Cut: A Royal Jewel Shape

The marquise brilliant cut is a stunning and distinctive diamond shape characterized by its elongated form with pointed ends and a facet pattern similar to the round brilliant cut. Often referred to as the 'navette' shape, meaning little boat in French, it offers a unique blend of classic brilliance and a dramatic silhouette.

Key Features

The defining characteristic of the marquise cut is its elongated shape with two pointed ends and a symmetrical, curved abdomen. This shape is designed to maximize the diamond's carat weight by preserving as much of the rough stone as possible. Key features include:

• Elongated Silhouette: Its length-to-width ratio typically ranges from 1.75:1 to 2.25:1, creating a visually larger appearance for its actual carat weight.
• Pointed Ends: These ends require careful protection, as they are more susceptible to chipping.
• Brilliance and Fire: Like the round brilliant, the marquise cut features 58 facets (including the culet) designed to optimize light reflection, dispersion (fire), and scintillation (sparkle).
• Facet Arrangement: The crown typically has 33 facets and the pavilion has 25 facets, arranged to create a dazzling display of light.
• Bow-tie Effect: Most marquise diamonds exhibit a bow-tie shaped shadow in the center due to the way light travels through the stone. A well-cut marquise will have a subtle, attractive bow-tie, while a poorly cut one may have a prominent, distracting dark area.

Origin and History

The origin of the marquise cut is steeped in romantic legend. It is widely believed that the cut was commissioned in the 18th century by King Louis XV of France, who desired a diamond that resembled the lips of his mistress, the Marquise de Pompadour. The elegance and regal association of this cut have contributed to its enduring popularity throughout history.

How It's Made

Creating a marquise brilliant cut diamond is a meticulous process that requires skilled craftsmanship. The rough diamond is carefully mapped and sawn to achieve the desired elongated shape. The cutting and polishing stages involve creating the 58 facets, ensuring precise angles and proportions to maximize brilliance and minimize the bow-tie effect. The skill of the cutter is paramount in transforming a rough stone into a spectacular marquise diamond.

Grading & Quality Standards

The quality of a marquise brilliant cut diamond is assessed using the standard 4Cs: Cut, Color, Clarity, and Carat Weight. However, for this specific shape, the 'Cut' quality requires special attention:

• Cut: While there isn't a formal grading system for the cut of fancy shapes like the marquise, visual assessment of its symmetry, proportions, and the appearance of the bow-tie is crucial. Look for a balanced play of light and shadow, avoiding overly dark or prominent bow-ties. The length-to-width ratio is also a key aesthetic consideration.
• Color: Marquise cuts tend to show color at their pointed ends more than round diamonds. Therefore, for a diamond to appear colorless, consider grades from G to I, or even D to F for exceptional white.
• Clarity: Due to the many facets and the potential for inclusions to be hidden, clarity grades of VS1 to VS2 are often recommended for marquise cuts, as they offer a good balance between beauty and value. Si1 can also be a good option if inclusions are not visible to the naked eye.
• Carat Weight: The marquise shape appears larger than other cuts of the same carat weight.

Buying Guide

When choosing a marquise brilliant cut diamond, consider the following:

• Length-to-Width Ratio: Decide on your preferred look. A ratio closer to 1.75:1 will appear more rounded, while a ratio of 2:1 or higher will be more elongated.
• Bow-tie Effect: Inspect the diamond carefully, preferably under magnification. A faint, symmetrical bow-tie is acceptable, but a large, dark, or uneven one should be avoided.
• Protection for the Points: Given the vulnerability of the pointed ends, consider settings that offer protection, such as bezel settings or V-prongs.
• Symmetry: Ensure the two halves of the diamond are mirror images of each other for a balanced appearance.
• Setting Style: The marquise cut looks stunning in various settings, including solitaire, halo, and three-stone arrangements. It also pairs well with accent stones, particularly trillions or smaller round diamonds, often placed at the points to provide protection and enhance sparkle.

Price Range & Value Factors

The price of a marquise brilliant cut diamond is influenced by the same 4Cs as other diamond shapes. However, due to its larger surface area for its carat weight, it can sometimes be more affordable per carat than a round brilliant cut of similar quality. The efficiency of the cut from the rough stone also plays a role. A well-proportioned marquise with minimal bow-tie effect and good symmetry will command a higher price.

Care and Maintenance

Marquise cut diamonds, like all gemstones, require proper care to maintain their sparkle and integrity:

• Cleaning: Regularly clean your diamond jewelry with a soft brush, warm water, and mild dish soap. Rinse thoroughly and dry with a lint-free cloth. Avoid harsh chemicals or ultrasonic cleaners, especially if the diamond has noticeable inclusions or is set with certain types of stones.
• Protection: Be mindful of the pointed ends, which are prone to chipping. Avoid activities that could expose the diamond to hard impacts.
• Storage: Store your marquise diamond jewelry in a soft-lined box or pouch, separate from other jewelry, to prevent scratches and damage.

Pros and Cons

Pros:

• Appears Larger: The elongated shape makes it look bigger than other cuts of the same carat weight.
• Brilliance: Offers excellent sparkle and fire, comparable to a round brilliant.
• Unique Style: Provides a distinctive and elegant look.
• More Affordable: Can be more budget-friendly per carat than round brilliants.

Cons:

• Vulnerable Points: The pointed ends are susceptible to chipping and require protective settings.
• Bow-tie Effect: Can have a noticeable bow-tie shadow that detracts from its beauty if not cut well.
• Color Sensitivity: Tends to show color more prominently, especially at the points.

Famous Examples

One of the most famous marquise diamonds is the 'Cullinan VI and Cullinan XV', two stones that were once part of the Great Star of Africa (Cullinan I). The 'Star of Sierra Leone' is another notable diamond that was cut into multiple stones, some of which were marquise shaped.

Common Misconceptions

Misconception: Marquise diamonds are always prone to a large, distracting bow-tie effect.

Reality: While the bow-tie effect is characteristic of the marquise cut, a skilled cutter can minimize its appearance, resulting in a subtle and attractive shadow that enhances the diamond's sparkle rather than detracting from it.

Related Terms

• Round Brilliant Cut
• Princess Cut
• Emerald Cut
• Oval Cut
• Gemstone Facets
• Diamond Cut Quality
• Bow-tie Effect
• Length-to-Width Ratio

FAQs

What is the ideal length-to-width ratio for a marquise diamond?

The ideal ratio is subjective and depends on personal preference. However, ratios between 1.75:1 and 2:1 are most commonly considered aesthetically pleasing, offering a good balance between length and width.

Are marquise diamonds durable?

Marquise diamonds are as hard as other diamonds (10 on the Mohs scale), but their pointed ends are more vulnerable to chipping and breaking. Protective settings are recommended.

Do marquise diamonds show color more than other shapes?

Yes, the pointed ends of a marquise cut can show color more readily. If you desire a colorless appearance, consider diamonds in the G-I color range or higher.