The Marquise Brilliant Cut Diamond

The marquise brilliant cut diamond is a sophisticated and elegant choice for jewelry lovers. Known for its distinctive elongated shape with pointed ends, it maximizes carat weight and creates an illusion of larger size. This cut has a rich history and unique optical properties that make it a captivating option.

Definition

The marquise brilliant cut is a type of gemstone cut, most commonly applied to diamonds, characterized by its elliptical outline and 57 or 58 facets. It features two pointed ends and a symmetrical, elongated shape that resembles a boat or a football. The design aims to maximize the diamond's brilliance and apparent size.

Key Features

• Shape: Elongated oval with pointed ends.
• Facets: Typically 57 or 58, including the culet.
• Brilliance: Designed to reflect light effectively, creating sparkle.
• Illusion of Size: Its long shape can make the diamond appear larger than its actual carat weight.
• Prone to Twinning Girdles: The pointed ends can be vulnerable, often requiring protective settings.
• Bow-tie Effect: A common phenomenon in elongated cuts, appearing as a dark shadow in the center.

The Bow-tie Effect

The bow-tie effect is a characteristic dark area that appears across the center of a marquise diamond, resembling a bow tie. This occurs due to the way light travels through the diamond's facets. While some degree of bow tie is unavoidable and even expected, an excessive bow tie can detract from the diamond's beauty. A well-cut marquise should have a subtle, attractive bow tie, not a distracting void.

Origin and History

The marquise cut is believed to have been commissioned by King Louis XIV of France in the 18th century. He purportedly asked jewelers to create a diamond cut that resembled the lips of his favorite mistress, Madame de Pompadour. The name 'marquise' itself refers to a noble rank, further cementing its association with royalty and elegance. Over centuries, the cut has evolved, with modern techniques refining its optical performance.

Types / Variations

While the classic marquise brilliant is the most common, slight variations can exist in its proportions. These differences can affect the depth, spread, and overall appearance of the bow-tie effect. Jewelers might slightly adjust facet angles to enhance brilliance or minimize the bow tie, but the fundamental shape remains the same.

How It's Made

Creating a marquise cut diamond is a meticulous process. It begins with a rough diamond crystal, which is carefully mapped to determine the best orientation for cutting to maximize yield and quality. The diamond is then precisely sawn and polished using specialized tools and techniques. Skilled lapidaries meticulously shape the diamond, cutting the crown (top) and pavilion (bottom) with their respective facets. The final stage involves polishing each facet to achieve maximum light reflection and sparkle. The pointed ends require particular care to avoid chipping.

Grading & Quality Standards

Like other brilliant cuts, marquise diamonds are graded based on the 4 Cs: Carat, Cut, Color, and Clarity. For the marquise cut, specific considerations apply:

• Cut: Proportions, symmetry, and polish are crucial. A well-proportioned marquise will exhibit excellent brilliance and minimize the bow-tie effect. Symmetry is vital, especially ensuring the points are well-aligned.
• Color: The elongated shape can sometimes show color more prominently, especially at the pointed ends. Therefore, selecting a slightly higher color grade might be advisable for those sensitive to color.
• Clarity: Inclusions near the pointed ends can be more visible and pose a risk to the diamond's durability. It's often recommended to aim for a clarity grade where inclusions are not obvious to the naked eye, such as VS or SI.

Buying Guide

When purchasing a marquise cut diamond, consider the following:

• Proportions: Look for a length-to-width ratio typically between 1.75:1 and 2.00:1. This range generally offers a pleasing, elongated shape without being excessively narrow or short.
• Bow-tie: Examine the diamond under magnification and good lighting to assess the bow-tie effect. A faint or moderate bow tie is acceptable, but avoid those with very dark, prominent shadows.
• Symmetry: Ensure the two halves of the diamond are mirror images and the points are well-defined and aligned.
• Setting: The pointed ends are vulnerable. Consider settings that offer protection, such as a six-prong setting or a bezel setting, particularly for the tips.
• Durability: Be mindful of the pointed ends. Avoid settings that expose them to frequent impact.

Price Range & Value Factors

The price of a marquise cut diamond is influenced by the 4 Cs, just like other diamond shapes. However, the marquise cut often offers better value in terms of perceived size compared to a round brilliant of the same carat weight. This is because its elongated shape spreads the weight over a larger surface area, making it appear bigger. Due to the higher yield from the rough crystal and less waste compared to a round cut, marquise diamonds can sometimes be more affordably priced per carat.

Care and Maintenance

Marquise cut diamonds require careful handling due to their pointed ends. Regular cleaning with a soft brush, mild soap, and warm water is recommended to maintain their sparkle. Avoid ultrasonic cleaners, as they can dislodge stones or cause damage, especially to the vulnerable points. When storing, keep marquise diamonds separate from other jewelry to prevent scratches.

Pros and Cons

Pros

• Appears Larger: The elongated shape creates an illusion of greater size.
• Unique Elegance: Offers a distinctive and sophisticated look.
• Value: Can be more cost-effective per carat than round brilliants due to better yield from rough.
• Flattering: The shape can elongate the appearance of the finger.

Cons

• Vulnerable Tips: The pointed ends are susceptible to chipping and breakage.
• Bow-tie Effect: Can have a noticeable dark shadow in the center.
• Inclusions: Inclusions near the points can be more visible and compromise durability.
• Setting Considerations: Requires protective settings to safeguard the points.

Famous Examples

One of the most famous marquise cut diamonds is the 'Star of the South'. Discovered in Brazil in the 19th century, this large diamond has been historically significant. Another notable example is the 'Cullinan VI', a pear-shaped diamond from the Great Star of Africa, which, while primarily pear-shaped, shares the elegance and brilliance principles with the marquise cut. The 'Lesedi La Rona II' pear, also cut from a massive rough diamond, showcases modern cutting mastery.

Common Misconceptions

Misconception: All marquise diamonds have a bad bow-tie effect.
Reality: While a bow tie is characteristic, a well-cut marquise can have a subtle and attractive one. Poorly cut stones are more likely to have a distracting bow tie.

Misconception: Marquise diamonds are fragile and not suitable for everyday wear.
Reality: While the points need protection, with a suitable setting (like a bezel or six-prong), marquise diamonds can be durable enough for regular wear.

Related Terms

• Brilliant Cut
• Gemstone Facets
• Diamond Proportions
• Diamond Symmetry
• Diamond Polish
• Diamond Clarity
• Diamond Color
• Diamond Carat Weight
• Princess Cut
• Oval Cut
• Pear Shape

FAQs

What is the ideal length-to-width ratio for a marquise diamond?

A common and aesthetically pleasing ratio for a marquise diamond is between 1.75:1 and 2.00:1. However, personal preference plays a significant role.

How can I minimize the bow-tie effect in a marquise diamond?

Choosing a marquise with excellent cut proportions and symmetry is the best way to minimize a distracting bow tie. Sometimes, slightly deeper pavilion depths can help mask it, but this can impact brilliance.

Are marquise diamonds good for engagement rings?

Yes, marquise diamonds can be excellent for engagement rings, offering a unique style and the illusion of a larger size. However, ensuring the pointed ends are well-protected by the setting is crucial.

Why are marquise diamonds sometimes cheaper than round diamonds?

Marquise diamonds often yield more stones from a single rough diamond compared to round diamonds, meaning less rough material is wasted in the cutting process. This efficiency can translate to a lower price per carat for comparable quality.