The Kimberley Setting: A Distinctive Approach to Gemstone Security

The Kimberley setting, also known as a cluster setting, is a unique method of securing multiple small gemstones within a single piece of jewelry. Instead of a single large stone, this setting utilizes a collection of smaller stones arranged closely together to create the illusion of a larger, more substantial gem or a distinct decorative pattern. This technique is particularly popular for creating elaborate designs and maximizing sparkle with smaller, more affordable diamonds or colored gemstones.

Definition

The Kimberley setting is characterized by its arrangement of numerous small gemstones, often diamonds, set adjacent to one another. These stones are typically secured by tiny prongs or beads that hold them in place, with their bases forming a cohesive surface. The primary goal is to create a unified visual impact, making the assembled stones appear as one larger entity or a beautifully detailed mosaic.

Key Features

• Multi-stone arrangement: The defining characteristic is the use of multiple small stones rather than a single large one.
• Illusion of size: When executed well, the setting can make a collection of small stones look like a single, larger, and more valuable gem.
• Enhanced sparkle: The proximity of numerous small stones can create a significant amount of brilliance and fire, as light reflects and refracts across many facets.
• Design versatility: This setting allows for intricate and creative designs, from floral patterns to abstract shapes.
• Cost-effectiveness: Utilizing smaller stones can significantly reduce the overall cost compared to a single large gem of equivalent perceived size.
• Secured by prongs or beads: Individual stones are typically held by small metal prongs or beads, which are often minimal to avoid obstructing the gemstones.

Origin and History

The concept of grouping smaller gemstones together to create a larger visual effect has ancient roots, seen in various forms of mosaic jewelry throughout history. However, the Kimberley setting as a distinct style gained prominence with advancements in jewelry manufacturing techniques, particularly in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The rise of mass production and the desire for elaborate-looking pieces at more accessible price points fueled its popularity. The name itself is often associated with the Kimberley region of South Africa, renowned for its diamond mines, suggesting a connection to the availability of smaller, high-quality diamonds during a specific period.

Types / Variations

While the core concept remains the same, the Kimberley setting can manifest in several variations:

• Illusion Setting: In this variation, the metal around the small diamonds is faceted or polished to mimic the appearance of additional diamonds, further enhancing the illusion of a larger stone. The small diamonds are often set very closely together, sometimes separated by thin lines of metal that are polished to blend in.
• Cluster Setting: This is the most general term and can encompass various arrangements of small stones. The stones might be set closely together without significant metal faceting to mimic more diamonds. The focus is on the visual density and sparkle of the stones themselves.
• Starburst or Floral Clusters: These are more specific design applications where the small stones are arranged to form a particular shape, like a starburst radiating from a central point or the petals of a flower.
• Gypsy or Burnish Setting within a Cluster: Sometimes, small diamonds might be partially or fully burnished into a metal surface within a larger cluster design, offering a smooth, low-profile look for certain elements.

How It's Made

Creating a Kimberley setting involves meticulous craftsmanship:

1. Stone Selection: Small, uniformly sized gemstones, often diamonds, are carefully chosen for their cut, clarity, and color. Consistency is key to achieving a seamless look.
2. Layout and Design: The arrangement of the stones is planned to create the desired visual effect, whether it's the illusion of a single large gem or a specific pattern.
3. Pre-forming the Mount: A metal base or 'collet' is prepared, often with pre-drilled holes or seats where each small stone will rest.
4. Setting the Stones: Using specialized tools, each small stone is carefully placed into its seat. Tiny prongs are then gently bent over the girdle or edge of each stone to secure it. Alternatively, a fine bead of metal might be raised from the surrounding metal to hold the stone. The goal is to use the minimum amount of metal necessary to hold the stones securely, maximizing light exposure.
5. Finishing: Once all stones are set, the piece is polished. In illusion settings, the surrounding metal is often faceted or highly polished to blend with the gemstones and enhance the overall sparkle and perceived size.

Grading & Quality Standards

While individual small stones in a Kimberley setting might adhere to standard grading practices (like the 4 Cs for diamonds), the quality of the setting itself is judged differently:

• Symmetry: The stones should be set with even spacing and alignment to create a visually pleasing and cohesive pattern.
• Uniformity: Stones should match closely in size, shape, and color for a seamless appearance.
• Security: Each stone must be securely held by its prongs or beads, with no looseness.
• Metalwork: The prongs or beads should be minimal, neat, and well-finished, not detracting from the gemstones. In illusion settings, the metal faceting should be precise and well-executed.
• Overall Brilliance: The arrangement should maximize the sparkle and light performance of the combined stones.

Buying Guide

When considering jewelry with a Kimberley setting:

• Inspect the Stone Placement: Look closely to ensure the small stones are set evenly and closely together. Check for gaps or misaligned stones.
• Examine the Metalwork: The prongs or beads holding the stones should be small, neat, and consistent. They should not overpower the gemstones.
• Consider the Metal: The setting metal can influence the overall look and perceived color of the gemstones, especially diamonds. White metals like platinum or white gold can enhance the brightness.
• Evaluate the Design: Ensure the design appeals to you and fits your style. Whether it aims for an illusion of size or a decorative pattern, the overall aesthetic should be pleasing.
• Ask about the Stones: Understand what type of gemstones are used and their quality. Even small stones can vary in value.

Price Range & Value Factors

The price of a Kimberley setting piece varies greatly depending on several factors:

• Type and Quality of Gemstones: Diamonds will generally be more expensive than colored gemstones. The quality (cut, clarity, color) of these small stones significantly impacts price.
• Total Carat Weight: While individual stones are small, the cumulative weight can influence the price.
• Metal Used: Platinum and gold (especially higher karat) are more expensive than silver or lower karat gold.
• Craftsmanship: Intricate designs and high-quality setting work command higher prices. The precision in setting small stones is crucial for value.
• Brand and Design: Designer pieces or items with unique, intricate patterns will often be priced higher.

The primary value proposition of the Kimberley setting is often achieving a significant visual impact and sparkle at a more accessible price point compared to a single large gemstone.

Care and Maintenance

Jewelry with Kimberley settings requires careful handling and cleaning:

• Regular Cleaning: Clean regularly with a soft brush, mild dish soap, and warm water. Gently scrub around the settings to remove dirt and oils that can dull the sparkle.
• Professional Inspection: Have the piece inspected by a jeweler periodically (e.g., once a year) to ensure the small prongs or beads holding the stones are still secure. Vibrations and daily wear can loosen them over time.
• Avoid Harsh Chemicals: Do not expose the jewelry to harsh chemicals, abrasive cleaners, or ultrasonic cleaners, as these can damage the stones or loosen the settings.
• Careful Wear: Be mindful of activities that could lead to impacts, as small stones can chip or become dislodged more easily than a larger, well-protected stone.

Pros and Cons

Pros:

• Visual Impact: Can create the illusion of a larger, more expensive center stone or a dazzling display of sparkle.
• Cost-Effective: Generally more affordable than a single large gemstone of comparable perceived size.
• Design Flexibility: Allows for intricate patterns, shapes, and decorative designs.
• Enhanced Brilliance: The multitude of stones can produce exceptional fire and scintillation.

Cons:

• Durability Concerns: The numerous small prongs or beads can be more susceptible to damage or loosening than a single, robust setting.
• Maintenance Intensive: Can be harder to clean effectively due to the small crevices between stones.
• Individual Stone Quality: The quality of each small stone may be lower than what would be found in a single larger gem at the same price point.
• Potential for Stone Loss: A loosened prong on one small stone can put adjacent stones at risk.

Famous Examples

While specific named pieces might not be as widely recognized as famous single stones, the Kimberley setting style is prevalent in many vintage and contemporary jewelry designs. It is commonly found in:

• Edwardian and Art Deco engagement rings: Many rings from these eras feature diamond clusters designed to look like larger stones.
• Brooches and Pendants: Elaborate floral or geometric designs using numerous small diamonds or colored gemstones are often executed in this style.
• Certain styles of eternity bands: Some eternity bands use very small, closely set stones that resemble a continuous line of sparkle, akin to a Kimberley or pavé style.

Common Misconceptions

• All small stones set closely are the same: While related, styles like pavé, micro-pavé, and illusion settings have distinct differences in how stones are held and the visual effect created. The Kimberley setting specifically aims to create a unified surface or the illusion of a single large stone.
• They are always cheap: While cost-effective compared to large stones, high-quality gemstones and intricate craftsmanship in a Kimberley setting can still result in a valuable piece of jewelry.
• They are only for diamonds: While most commonly associated with diamonds, this setting technique can also be used effectively with smaller colored gemstones.

Related Terms

• Cluster Setting
• Illusion Setting
• Pavé Setting
• Micro-Pavé Setting
• Burnish Setting
• Gypsy Setting
• Mosaic Setting

FAQs

What is the main advantage of a Kimberley setting?

The main advantage is its ability to create a significant visual impact and substantial sparkle, often mimicking the look of a larger, more expensive gemstone at a more accessible price point.

Are Kimberley settings durable?

They can be less durable than settings with fewer, larger stones and more robust metal structures. The numerous small points of contact holding the stones can be more vulnerable to damage or wear over time.

How do I clean a Kimberley setting?

Clean gently with a soft toothbrush, mild soap, and warm water. Avoid abrasive cleaners or ultrasonic devices. Regular professional checks are recommended to ensure stones remain secure.

Is a Kimberley setting good for engagement rings?

It can be, especially if the goal is maximum sparkle or the illusion of a larger diamond at a budget-friendly price. However, potential durability concerns for daily wear should be considered compared to solitaire settings like prong or bezel.

What is the difference between a Kimberley setting and a pavé setting?

In a Kimberley setting, the small stones are typically set closely together to form a distinct shape or the illusion of a single larger stone, often with minimal visible metal. In a pavé setting, small stones are set very closely, almost touching, with tiny beads of metal covering the girdle and supporting the stones, creating a 'paved' surface of diamonds.