The Diamond Clarity Scale Explained

Understanding the diamond clarity scale is crucial for any informed jewelry purchase. Clarity refers to the presence or absence of internal characteristics, known as inclusions, and external characteristics, known as blemishes. These imperfections are natural and unique to each diamond, formed during its creation deep within the earth. The clarity scale provides a standardized way to grade these characteristics, helping consumers and professionals assess a diamond's purity and, consequently, its value.

What is Diamond Clarity?

Diamond clarity is one of the four primary 'Cs' (Cut, Color, Clarity, and Carat Weight) used to grade the quality of a diamond. It specifically examines the size, number, location, nature, and relief of a diamond's internal and external characteristics. While no diamond is absolutely perfect, the fewer and less noticeable these imperfections are, the higher the clarity grade, and generally, the higher the diamond's value.

The 4 Cs of Diamond Quality

It is important to understand clarity within the context of the other three Cs:

• Cut: How well the diamond has been proportioned and faceted to reflect light. A good cut can make a diamond appear brighter and larger.
• Color: The absence of color in a white diamond. The less color, the higher the grade (ranging from D, colorless, to Z, light yellow or brown).
• Clarity: The assessment of internal and external flaws.
• Carat Weight: The diamond's measurement in carats, which is a unit of weight (1 carat = 0.2 grams).

The GIA Clarity Grading Scale

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) scale is the most widely recognized and used grading system for diamond clarity. It categorizes diamonds into six main classes, with a total of eleven grades:

Flawless (FL)

Definition: No inclusions and no blemishes are visible to a trained grader under 10x magnification. These are exceedingly rare.

Internally Flawless (IF)

Definition: No inclusions are visible to a trained grader under 10x magnification, but minor blemishes may be present. These are also very rare.

Very, Very Slightly Included (VVS1 and VVS2)

Definition: Inclusions are difficult to see under 10x magnification. VVS1 has fewer and less noticeable inclusions than VVS2, with inclusions typically on the inside. They are still considered exceptional.

Very Slightly Included (VS1 and VS2)

Definition: Inclusions are minor and difficult to see under 10x magnification. They may be noticeable to a highly trained grader but do not significantly impact the diamond's brilliance.

Slightly Included (SI1 and SI2)

Definition: Inclusions are visible under 10x magnification and may be noticeable to the unaided eye, especially in SI2. They are typically not deep or centered.

Included (I1, I2, and I3)

Definition: Inclusions are obvious under 10x magnification and are often visible to the unaided eye. They can affect the diamond's transparency and brilliance. Diamonds in this category are generally not recommended for fine jewelry unless the inclusions are minor and do not detract from the beauty.

How Clarity is Graded

Grading a diamond's clarity is a meticulous process performed by skilled gemologists under controlled conditions. Key factors considered include:

• Magnification: A 10x power loupe (a jeweler's magnifying glass) is the standard tool used. Higher magnification may be used for detailed analysis, but the official grade is determined at 10x.
• Lighting: Proper lighting is essential to observe inclusions and blemishes effectively.
• Type of Inclusions: Are they crystals, clouds, feathers, needles, or naturals (unpolished areas on the diamond surface)?
• Size and Number: How large and numerous are the inclusions?
• Relief: How visible are the inclusions against the diamond's facets? Do they stand out or blend in?
• Location: Are the inclusions near the center of the diamond or close to the girdle? Inclusions near the culet (the pointed bottom facet) or directly under the table facet (the largest top facet) are generally more significant.
• Blemishes: These are external features like scratches, nicks, or polish lines.

Buying Guide: What to Look for

When purchasing a diamond, clarity is an important consideration, but it's essential to balance it with the other Cs and your budget.

• Consider VS or SI grades: For most buyers, diamonds in the VS (Very Slightly Included) and SI (Slightly Included) ranges offer the best value. In these grades, inclusions are typically not visible to the naked eye ('eye-clean') and allow you to allocate more of your budget to carat weight or color without compromising visibly.
• Ask for an eye-cleanliness assessment: Always ask the jeweler if the diamond is 'eye-clean.' This means that with the naked eye, you cannot see any inclusions. A diamond graded SI1, for example, might be eye-clean, while an IF diamond could have a tiny blemish visible to a trained eye.
• Examine the diamond yourself: If possible, look at the diamond under a loupe and with the naked eye. Compare it to the grading report.
• Understand the Grading Report: A reputable grading report (like those from GIA, AGS, or other respected labs) will provide a detailed clarity plot showing the location and nature of inclusions and blemishes.
• Avoid 'I' grades unless specified: Included diamonds (I1, I2, I3) often have significant flaws that can impact durability and appearance. If considering an 'I' grade, ensure the inclusions are not detrimental and the diamond is still beautiful to you.

Price Range and Value Factors

Clarity has a significant impact on a diamond's price. As you move up the clarity scale from Included to Flawless, the price increases exponentially, especially for larger diamonds. The rarity of diamonds with fewer inclusions drives this price difference.

Factors influencing value:

• Rarity: Flawless and Internally Flawless diamonds are exceptionally rare, commanding premium prices.
• Inclusion Visibility: Even if a diamond is graded VS, if its inclusions are particularly dark or centrally located, it may be valued lower than another VS diamond with inclusions that are white, near the edge, or blendable.
• Type of Inclusion: Certain types of inclusions, like large feathers or clouds, can affect durability and are more undesirable than small crystals.

Pros and Cons of Diamond Clarity Grades

Pros:

• Higher Clarity = Higher Value: For collectors and investors, higher clarity grades (FL, IF, VVS) represent rarity and potential for value appreciation.
• Perfection: Flawless diamonds offer a sense of ultimate perfection and brilliance.

Cons:

• Cost: The price jumps significantly with each incremental increase in clarity, making higher grades unattainable for many budgets.
• Diminishing Returns: Beyond VS1 or VS2, the visual difference in clarity to the naked eye is often negligible, meaning you pay a premium for a difference most people cannot see.
• Potential for Durability Issues: In very rare cases, large inclusions like significant feathers can compromise a diamond's structural integrity, though this is uncommon in typical jewelry grades.

Related Terms

• Inclusion: An internal characteristic within a diamond, such as a crystal, cloud, or feather.
• Blemish: An external characteristic on the surface of a diamond, such as a scratch, pit, or extra facet.
• Loupe: A small, powerful magnifying lens used by jewelers and gemologists to examine gemstones.
• Eye-Clean: A term used to describe a diamond where no inclusions are visible to the naked eye.
• Gemological Institute of America (GIA): The leading non-profit institute for gemological research and education, widely recognized for its diamond grading reports.
• American Gem Society (AGS): Another reputable organization that provides diamond grading services.

FAQs

Q1: What is the most important C?

All four Cs are important and interact with each other. However, the 'cut' is often considered the most impactful on a diamond's beauty and sparkle, as it dictates how light interacts with the stone. Clarity is crucial for value, but the visual difference between grades like VVS and VS can be minimal to the untrained eye.

Q2: Can you see inclusions with the naked eye?

Inclusions are typically only visible to the naked eye in lower clarity grades (SI2 and especially I1, I2, I3). Diamonds graded VS and above usually appear 'eye-clean'.

Q3: Are flawless diamonds worth the extra cost?

For most consumers, flawless diamonds are not worth the significant price premium, as the visual difference is imperceptible without magnification. They are primarily sought after by collectors and investors who value extreme rarity.

Q4: How does clarity affect a diamond's sparkle?

Large or numerous inclusions, especially those that are opaque or dark, can interfere with the passage of light through the diamond, potentially reducing its sparkle and brilliance. However, in most higher clarity grades (VS and above), inclusions are too small or transparent to noticeably impact sparkle.

Q5: What clarity grade should I look for?

For the best balance of beauty and value, diamonds in the VS1 to SI1 clarity range are often recommended. They are typically eye-clean and offer significant savings compared to higher grades.