The Cushion Cut: A Timeless Blend of Brilliance and Romance

The cushion cut, also known as the 'pillow cut', is a beloved diamond shape celebrated for its rounded corners and rectangular or square overall outline. It evokes a sense of vintage charm and romantic elegance, making it a popular choice for engagement rings and other fine jewelry.

Definition

The cushion cut is characterized by its squarish or rectangular shape with softly rounded corners, resembling a pillow. It typically features 58 facets, though variations exist, and its faceting pattern can be either brilliant or modified brilliant, influencing its sparkle. The modified brilliant cut often incorporates a fishtail or star facet on the pavilion, which can enhance its fire and scintillation, sometimes at the expense of a touch of brilliance compared to a standard brilliant cut.

Key Features

• Shape: Square or rectangular with rounded corners.
• Facets: Typically 58 facets, arranged in a brilliant or modified brilliant pattern.
• Sparkle: Offers a captivating balance of brilliance (white light return) and fire (dispersion of light into spectral colors). The rounded corners soften the light return compared to sharper cuts, often resulting in a more romantic, diffused glow.
• Versatility: Suits a wide range of jewelry styles, from classic and vintage to modern and contemporary.
• Durability: The rounded corners make it less prone to chipping than cuts with sharp angles, such as the princess cut.

Origin and History

The cushion cut has a long and distinguished history, tracing its roots back to the early 18th century. It evolved from the old mine cut, a historically significant diamond shape popular during the Georgian and Victorian eras. The old mine cut was characterized by its cushion-like shape, high crown, and small table, and it was the dominant diamond cut before the advent of modern cutting techniques. As gem cutting technology advanced, the old mine cut was refined into the cushion cut we recognize today. This evolution aimed to maximize the diamond's brilliance and fire according to the cutting standards of the time. The cushion cut remained highly fashionable throughout the 19th and early 20th centuries, often seen in antique jewelry.

Types / Variations

While the basic cushion shape is consistent, variations in its faceting and proportions lead to distinct visual characteristics:

• Cushion Brilliant Cut: This variation mimics the faceting pattern of a round brilliant cut, aiming for maximum brilliance. It typically has a squarer shape and a more intense sparkle, though it may have smaller flashes of fire.
• Cushion Modified Brilliant Cut: This is the most common type of cushion cut. It features an extra row of facets on the pavilion, often referred to as a 'fishtail' or 'star' facet. This modification enhances the diamond's fire and scintillation, creating larger, more pronounced flashes of color, though it may slightly reduce overall brilliance compared to the cushion brilliant.
• Cushion Square vs. Cushion Rectangular: Cushion cuts can be found in a near-perfect square or a distinct rectangular shape. The ideal ratio for a cushion square is typically between 1.00 and 1.07, while a cushion rectangle might have ratios ranging from 1.10 to 1.30. The choice often depends on personal preference and the desired aesthetic.

How It's Made

The creation of a cushion cut diamond is a meticulous process. Gem cutters start with a rough diamond crystal and use advanced technology and skilled artistry to shape it. The process involves:

1. Planning: Analyzing the rough diamond to determine the best yield and cut strategy to achieve the desired cushion shape and facet arrangement.
2. Bruting: Rounding the girdle edge of the diamond.
3. Blocking: Cutting the main facets, including the table and culet.
4. Polishing: Creating the remaining facets, carefully aligning them to optimize light performance. For modified cushion cuts, specific facet arrangements are employed to enhance fire.

The proportions, symmetry, and polish are critical at every stage, influencing the final diamond's beauty and value.

Grading & Quality Standards

Like other diamond cuts, cushion cut diamonds are graded based on the Four Cs: Carat, Cut, Color, and Clarity. However, the 'Cut' grade for fancy shapes like the cushion cut is not as standardized as for round brilliants. While GIA (Gemological Institute of America) provides cut grades for round diamonds, for fancy shapes, they focus on the individual quality characteristics of the cut rather than a single grade. When evaluating a cushion cut, consider:

• Proportions: The depth and table size affect light return. Ideal proportions vary, but extremes can lead to dullness or excessive leakage.
• Symmetry: Precise alignment of facets is crucial for optimal sparkle.
• Polish: A smooth, well-polished surface is necessary for maximum brilliance.

Buying Guide

When choosing a cushion cut diamond, several factors should guide your decision:

• Shape Preference: Decide between a cushion square or a cushion rectangle. Look at the length-to-width ratio to achieve your desired look.
• Faceting Style: Determine if you prefer the intense fire of a modified brilliant or the balanced sparkle of a cushion brilliant. Examining the diamond face-up is key.
• Color: Cushion cuts, especially modified ones, can sometimes show color more readily than round brilliants due to their facet structure and how they disperse light. Consider a color grade of G or H for white metals, or I or J if set in yellow gold to appear colorless.
• Clarity: Aim for a clarity grade of SI1 or higher. Because of the cushion cut's faceting, inclusions might be less noticeable than in a round brilliant, but it's still wise to avoid SI2 or lower unless you can verify the inclusions are not eye-visible.
• Setting: Cushion cuts look stunning in various settings. Four-prong settings are common for protection, while halo settings can enhance the diamond's size and sparkle. Bezel settings offer maximum protection for the rounded corners.
• Budget: Cushion cuts are typically less expensive per carat than round brilliant diamonds, offering more size for your budget.

Price Range & Value Factors

Cushion cut diamonds generally offer excellent value, often costing 15-30% less per carat than comparable round brilliant diamonds. This is due to the higher yield from rough diamonds when cutting a cushion shape compared to a round brilliant. Key value factors include:

• Size (Carat Weight): Larger diamonds command higher prices.
• Color: Higher color grades (closer to colorless) are more valuable.
• Clarity: Higher clarity grades (fewer inclusions) increase value.
• Cut Quality: While not graded as a single entity by GIA for fancy shapes, the specific proportions, symmetry, and polish significantly impact beauty and thus value. Well-cut cushion diamonds with excellent brilliance and fire will be more valuable.
• Shape Ratio: The specific length-to-width ratio can influence price, with squarer shapes sometimes being slightly more in demand.

Care and Maintenance

Cushion cut diamonds are relatively durable due to their rounded corners, making them less susceptible to chipping than cuts with sharp angles. However, like all gemstones, they require proper care:

• Cleaning: Regularly clean your cushion cut jewelry with a soft brush, warm water, and mild dish soap. Rinse thoroughly and dry with a lint-free cloth. For deeper cleaning, professional ultrasonic cleaning is an option, but caution is advised if the diamond has extensive inclusions or is set in a way that could be damaged.
• Storage: Store your jewelry in a soft pouch or a lined jewelry box to prevent scratches from harder materials.
• Protection: While durable, avoid exposing your jewelry to harsh chemicals, extreme temperatures, or hard impacts. Remove rings when engaging in strenuous activities like sports, gardening, or cleaning.

Pros and Cons

Pros:

• Romantic and Vintage Appeal: Its soft edges and historical roots give it a unique charm.
• Excellent Value: Often more affordable per carat than round brilliants.
• Good Durability: Rounded corners reduce the risk of chipping.
• Impressive Sparkle: Offers a beautiful combination of brilliance and fire.
• Variety: Available in square and rectangular shapes with different faceting styles.

Cons:

• Color Sensitivity: May show color more readily than round brilliants in lower color grades.
• Cut Grading Inconsistency: Lack of a universal cut grade can make comparison shopping more complex.
• Potential for Lower Brilliance: Modified cushion cuts, while rich in fire, may have slightly less overall brilliance than ideal round brilliants.

Famous Examples

The cushion cut has graced some of the world's most famous jewels:

• The Hope Diamond: This legendary 45.52-carat deep blue diamond is a cushion-shaped antique brilliant cut.
• The Wittelsbach-Graff Diamond: A 31.06-carat cushion-cut blue diamond, once part of the Bavarian crown jewels.
• The Tiffany Yellow Diamond: A magnificent 128.54-carat cushion-cut yellow diamond, one of the largest yellow diamonds ever discovered.

Common Misconceptions

Misconception: All cushion cuts look the same.
Reality: Cushion cuts vary significantly in their proportions, faceting patterns (brilliant vs. modified), and shape ratios (square vs. rectangular), leading to distinct visual appearances and sparkle characteristics.

Misconception: Cushion cuts are less brilliant than round cuts.
Reality: While some modified cushion cuts might prioritize fire over maximum brilliance, an well-cut cushion brilliant can exhibit exceptional brilliance, comparable to a round diamond. The perceived sparkle is often a blend of brilliance and fire.

Related Terms

• Old Mine Cut
• Modified Brilliant Cut
• Fancy Shape Diamond
• Engagement Ring Settings
• Diamond Facets
• Brilliance and Fire

FAQs

Is a cushion cut diamond good for an engagement ring?

Absolutely. Cushion cuts are one of the most popular choices for engagement rings due to their romantic appeal, excellent sparkle, durability, and often better value compared to round brilliants.

What is the difference between a cushion brilliant and a cushion modified brilliant cut?

The cushion brilliant cut is designed to maximize brilliance, similar to a round brilliant. The cushion modified brilliant cut incorporates an extra set of facets on the pavilion, which enhances the diamond's fire (color flashes) but can slightly reduce its overall brilliance.

Are cushion cut diamonds more expensive than round diamonds?

Typically, no. Cushion cut diamonds are generally less expensive per carat than round brilliant diamonds of comparable quality. This is due to the more efficient way a cushion shape can be cut from a rough diamond crystal.

What color grade should I look for in a cushion cut diamond?

Due to their faceting, cushion cuts can sometimes show color more prominently. For white metal settings (platinum, white gold), a color grade of G, H, or even I is often recommended to appear colorless. For yellow gold settings, grades J or K can still look beautiful.

How durable is a cushion cut diamond?

Cushion cuts are quite durable, especially compared to cuts with sharp corners like the princess cut. The rounded corners are less prone to chipping and damage, making them a practical choice for everyday wear.