The Cushion Brilliant Cut Diamond

The Cushion Brilliant diamond, also known as the cushion-cut or pillow-cut diamond, is a captivating shape that blends the romance of antique cuts with the modern brilliance of contemporary faceting. It is characterized by its square or rectangular shape with rounded corners, resembling a soft pillow. This distinctive silhouette, combined with its excellent light performance, makes it a popular choice for engagement rings and other fine jewelry.

Key Features

The Cushion Brilliant cut is a hybrid cut, meaning it combines elements of older cushion cuts with the modern brilliant cut. This fusion results in a stone that offers superior sparkle and fire compared to its antique predecessors. Its defining characteristics include:

• Shape: Typically square or rectangular with rounded corners. The ratio of length to width can vary, influencing its appearance.
• Facets: It features 58 facets, similar to a round brilliant cut, but arranged differently to maximize brilliance and fire within its unique outline. The crown facets are usually rounder and the pavilion facets are cut deeper than a standard round brilliant.
• Brilliance: The cut is designed to reflect and refract light efficiently, producing a desirable sparkle.
• Fire: Cushion cuts are known for their strong fire, which is the dispersion of white light into spectral colors.
• Scintillation: The rounded corners and specific facet arrangement create lively flashes of light, or scintillation, as the diamond moves.
• Crushles: Some cushion cuts exhibit 'crushles' or blocky facets instead of pointed ones, which can give them a distinct, appealing appearance.

Origin and History

The cushion cut has a rich history dating back to the 19th century, evolving from the older old mine cut. The old mine cut was popular during the Georgian and Victorian eras and featured a cushion shape with a high crown, a small table, and a pointed culet. As cutting techniques advanced, the old mine cut evolved into the cushion cut. The addition of the brilliant facet arrangement in the early 20th century, inspired by the round brilliant cut, led to the development of the Cushion Brilliant. This innovation significantly improved the diamond's sparkle and fire, making it a more contemporary and desirable option.

Types / Variations

While the Cushion Brilliant is a specific cut, there are variations that primarily differ in their facet arrangement and appearance:

• Cushion Modified Brilliant: This is the most common type today. It features an extra row of facets on the pavilion, which increases its brilliance and fire, often giving it a look reminiscent of a crushed ice effect.
• Cushion Portuguese: A more intricate cut with additional facets on the crown and pavilion, designed to maximize sparkle and fire.
• Cushion European: Similar to the Cushion Brilliant, it aims for high brilliance and fire, often with a slightly deeper pavilion.

The precise facet arrangement and proportions can create subtle differences in appearance, from a more glassy, checkerboard look to a fiery, dispersed sparkle.

How It's Made

Creating a Cushion Brilliant cut diamond is a meticulous process that requires skill and precision. After a rough diamond is selected for its potential, it is carefully mapped and planned. The diamond cutter then uses specialized tools and techniques to shape the rough stone, creating the characteristic rounded corners and precisely positioning the 58 facets. The goal is to optimize the stone's internal reflection of light, balance brilliance and fire, and achieve the desired proportions. The process involves sawing, bruting (shaping the girdle), and polishing the facets. The specific facet arrangement of the brilliant cut is applied to achieve maximum sparkle.

Grading & Quality Standards

Like all diamonds, Cushion Brilliant diamonds are graded based on the 4 Cs: Carat, Cut, Color, and Clarity. For Cushion Brilliants, the 'Cut' grading is particularly nuanced:

• Cut: While the GIA (Gemological Institute of America) grades round brilliants for cut, they typically do not assign a numerical cut grade to fancy shapes like the Cushion Brilliant. However, reputable jewelers and gemologists will assess the diamond's proportions, symmetry, and polish to ensure optimal light performance. Look for well-proportioned dimensions that result in good brilliance and fire.
• Color: Cushion Brilliants can show color more readily than round diamonds due to their facet structure. Many buyers prefer color grades from D to J for colorless to near-colorless diamonds. However, some prefer the warmer tones of K or L, especially in yellow gold settings.
• Clarity: Aim for a clarity grade where inclusions are not visible to the naked eye (eye-clean). Common clarity grades like VS1, VS2, SI1, and SI2 can be excellent value, provided the inclusions are well-disposed and don't detract from the stone's beauty.
• Carat: The weight of the diamond. Cushion cuts can sometimes appear slightly smaller face-up than a round diamond of the same carat weight due to their deeper pavilions.

Buying Guide

When purchasing a Cushion Brilliant diamond, consider the following:

• Shape Preference: Do you prefer a more square or rectangular cushion? Square cushions are often preferred for engagement rings, but rectangular ones can elongate the finger beautifully.
• Facet Pattern: Examine the diamond under magnification. Some prefer the larger, more defined flashes of light, while others are drawn to the finer, 'crushed ice' appearance of modified brilliants.
• Setting: Cushion cuts look stunning in various settings. Solitaire settings highlight the diamond's beauty, while halo settings can make the diamond appear larger and add extra sparkle. Three-stone settings are also popular.
• Proportions: Ensure the diamond has good symmetry and polish. A well-cut cushion will exhibit excellent brilliance and fire.
• Budget: Cushion Brilliants can be more affordable than round brilliant diamonds of comparable quality, offering great value.

Price Range & Value Factors

The price of a Cushion Brilliant diamond is determined by the 4 Cs. Generally, Cushion Brilliants are priced between round brilliant diamonds and other fancy shapes. They often offer better value due to the higher yield from rough diamonds and slightly lower demand compared to round brilliants. However, exceptional color, clarity, and cut quality will command higher prices. The overall proportions and the presence or absence of desirable optical effects like fire and scintillation significantly influence value.

Care and Maintenance

Caring for a Cushion Brilliant diamond is similar to caring for any diamond jewelry:

• Cleaning: Gently clean your diamond jewelry regularly with a soft brush, warm water, and mild dish soap. Rinse thoroughly and dry with a lint-free cloth. Avoid harsh chemicals or ultrasonic cleaners, especially if the diamond has inclusions or is set with soft metals or porous gemstones.
• Storage: Store your diamond jewelry in a separate soft pouch or jewelry box to prevent scratching other pieces.
• Professional Inspection: Have your jewelry professionally inspected and cleaned by a jeweler at least once a year to ensure the setting is secure and the diamond is free of debris.

Pros and Cons

Pros:

• Exceptional Sparkle: Offers a beautiful balance of brilliance and fire.
• Unique Shape: Its rounded corners and distinctive silhouette provide a softer, more romantic look than sharp-cornered shapes.
• Value: Often more affordable than round brilliant diamonds of similar quality.
• Versatility: Looks beautiful in a wide range of settings and jewelry styles.
• Durability: The rounded corners are less prone to chipping than the sharp corners of shapes like the princess cut.

Cons:

• Color Sensitivity: Can sometimes show warmer color tones more readily than round diamonds.
• Clarity Sensitivity: Inclusions may be more visible in certain facet arrangements if not well-placed.
• No Standardized Cut Grade: Lack of a universally accepted cut grade (like GIA for rounds) means buyers must rely more on visual inspection and expert opinion.
• Size Appearance: May appear slightly smaller face-up compared to a round diamond of the same carat weight.

Famous Examples

Several famous diamonds and notable jewelry pieces feature cushion-cut stones. While exact cut details are not always public, their shape is distinctive:

• The Hope Diamond: This iconic 45.52-carat deep blue diamond is renowned for its legendary history and its cushion antique brilliant cut.
• The Regent Diamond: A spectacular 140.64-carat colorless diamond, originally an old mine cut, which has been recut into a cushion shape.
• The Wittelsbach-Graff Diamond: A historically significant 35.56-carat cushion-cut fancy deep blue diamond.

Common Misconceptions

One common misconception is that all cushion-cut diamonds have the same appearance. In reality, the 'brilliant' aspect of the Cushion Brilliant cut allows for significant variation in facet arrangement, leading to different visual effects, from sharp, distinct flashes to a more blended, crushed-ice look. Another misconception is that they are always less sparkly than round brilliants; while the sparkle might be dispersed differently, a well-cut Cushion Brilliant can be incredibly dazzling.

Related Terms

• Old Mine Cut
• Round Brilliant Cut
• Fancy Shape Diamonds
• Diamond Facets
• Brilliance, Fire, Scintillation
• Diamond Clarity
• Diamond Color

FAQs

What is the difference between a Cushion Brilliant and an Old Mine Cut?

The Old Mine Cut is an antique cushion shape with a high crown, small table, and often a pointed culet. The Cushion Brilliant is a more modern evolution, incorporating the facet arrangement of a round brilliant cut to maximize sparkle and fire, generally featuring a flat culet and more balanced proportions.

Are Cushion Brilliant diamonds more or less expensive than round diamonds?

Generally, Cushion Brilliant diamonds are priced slightly lower than round brilliant diamonds of comparable quality, carat weight, color, and clarity. This is often due to better yield from rough diamonds and slightly less market demand.

What is the best facet pattern for a Cushion Brilliant diamond?

The 'best' pattern is subjective and depends on personal preference. Some prefer the bolder, more defined flashes of light found in certain cushion cuts, while others favor the finer, sparkling 'crushed ice' effect of modified brilliant cushions. Both can be beautiful when well-executed.

Do cushion cuts hide inclusions well?

Like any diamond shape, clarity is important. Cushion cuts, especially those with a 'crushed ice' appearance, can sometimes hide minor inclusions better than cuts with larger, more transparent facets. However, it's always best to choose an eye-clean diamond regardless of the cut.