The Asscher Cut: A Modern Classic

The Asscher cut diamond is a distinctive and elegant gemstone shape, often described as an emerald cut with a smaller, square center instead of an open table. It’s a step cut, meaning its facets are arranged in parallel rows, reminiscent of stairs. This unique geometry gives the Asscher cut a captivating, hall-of-mirrors effect, offering a sophisticated alternative to the more common brilliant cuts.

Key Features

The Asscher cut is characterized by several unique features that set it apart:

• Square Shape: Unlike the elongated rectangle of a traditional emerald cut, the Asscher cut is perfectly square.
• Step Cut Facets: The facets are arranged in concentric, stepped rows, both on the crown and the pavilion. This differs from the numerous, triangular facets found in brilliant cuts.
• Large, Open Culet: Traditionally, Asscher cuts feature a large, open culet (the point at the bottom of the pavilion). Modern variations may have a closed culet for added durability, but the open culet is a hallmark of the original design.
• Chopped Corners: The corners of the square are slightly truncated or cropped, giving it a subtle octagonal outline.
• Hall-of-Mirrors Effect: The large, parallel facets create a unique visual effect where light bounces internally, reflecting facets within facets. This results in a deep, moody sparkle rather than the intense fire and brilliance seen in brilliant cuts.
• Lower Brilliance, Higher Clarity: Due to its step-cut nature, the Asscher cut does not reflect light as intensely as a round brilliant. It emphasizes clarity and the geometric beauty of the stone rather than maximizing sparkle.

Origin and History

The Asscher cut was developed by the Asscher brothers of Holland in the early 20th century. Joseph Asscher, one of the brothers, patented the cut in 1902. It quickly gained popularity, especially during the Art Deco period of the 1920s and 1930s, where its geometric lines and sophisticated appearance perfectly complemented the era's architectural and design aesthetics. The original Asscher cut had 58 facets and a large open culet. However, the patent expired, and many variations emerged. In 2001, Royal Asscher Diamond Company, founded by descendants of the original Asschers, reintroduced an updated, patented version known as the Royal Asscher Cut, which boasts 74 facets and enhanced brilliance.

Types / Variations

While the classic Asscher cut is well-defined, there are a few notable variations:

• Classic Asscher Cut: The original 1902 patent, typically with 58 facets and an open culet. It offers a distinct vintage charm.
• Royal Asscher Cut: Patented in 2001, this modern iteration features 74 facets, a slightly deeper pavilion, and a smaller culet. It aims to increase brilliance and fire while retaining the Asscher's signature look. It is often advertised as having superior sparkle compared to the original.
• Other Step Cuts: While not strictly Asscher cuts, shapes like the emerald cut and the radiant cut share some characteristics (step facets or a square/rectangular outline) but differ significantly in their facet patterns and overall appearance.

How It's Made

The creation of an Asscher cut is a meticulous process requiring precision and expertise. The process generally involves:

1. Cleaving and Sawing: A rough diamond is carefully analyzed to determine the best orientation for cutting. It is then cleaved or sawn to achieve the desired rough shape.
2. Blocking: The initial facets are cut, establishing the basic outline and proportions of the stone.
3. Bruting: The diamond is rounded to ensure a perfectly circular girdle.
4. Polishing: This is the most critical stage for an Asscher cut. The numerous, parallel step facets are precisely cut and polished onto the crown and pavilion. The angles and placement of these facets are crucial for achieving the characteristic hall-of-mirrors effect and maximizing the stone's optical properties. The culet is also established at this stage.
5. Final Inspection: The finished diamond undergoes rigorous inspection to ensure symmetry, polish, and adherence to quality standards.

The number of facets can vary depending on the cutter and the specific variation (e.g., 58 for classic, 74 for Royal Asscher).

Grading & Quality Standards

Like all diamonds, Asscher cut diamonds are graded using the 4 Cs: Carat, Cut, Color, and Clarity. However, the Asscher cut's unique characteristics influence how these factors are perceived:

• Cut: For Asscher cuts, cut quality is assessed based on symmetry, polish, and the precise angles of the step facets. Proportions are also key; an ideal Asscher cut will exhibit excellent light return and the distinctive hall-of-mirrors effect.
• Clarity: Because the large, open facets can make inclusions more visible, clarity is particularly important. Aim for a clarity grade of VS1 or higher for the best appearance, as inclusions can detract from the stone's depth and optical illusions.
• Color: Asscher cuts tend to show color more readily than round brilliants due to their large, open facets. It is generally recommended to choose a color grade of G or higher (near colorless) to maintain a clean, white appearance, especially for larger stones.
• Carat: The weight of the diamond. Asscher cuts can appear slightly smaller face-up than a round brilliant of the same carat weight because they are typically cut deeper.

Buying Guide

When considering an Asscher cut diamond, keep the following in mind:

• Prportions: Look for stones with good symmetry and proportions. The ratio of length to width should be close to 1.00 for a perfect square. The depth percentage should be within a reasonable range (typically 60-70%) to balance brilliance and avoid a washed-out or overly dark appearance.
• Facet Symmetry: Ensure the facets are clean, parallel, and symmetrical. This is crucial for the hall-of-mirrors effect.
• Clarity: Given the nature of the cut, prioritize clarity. Look for eye-clean diamonds, meaning any inclusions are not visible to the naked eye. SI1 clarity might be acceptable if inclusions are well-hidden, but VS2 or higher is generally preferred.
• Color: Opt for a G color or higher for diamonds to ensure a colorless appearance. If considering a lower color grade, ensure it looks white in the setting.
• Culet: Decide whether you prefer an open culet (more traditional, can be prone to chipping) or a closed culet (more durable). Modern Royal Asschers often have a closed culet.
• Brand vs. Generic: A branded Asscher cut, like the Royal Asscher, may come with a premium price but offers a patented design and often superior cutting standards. A generic Asscher cut can be a good value, but it’s essential to verify the quality of the cut independently.
• Setting: Asscher cuts look stunning in various settings. Solitaire settings, three-stone rings, and halos all complement this shape beautifully. Consider a four-prong or six-prong setting for security, especially if the stone has an open culet. Platinum or white gold settings enhance the diamond's colorlessness.

Price Range & Value Factors

The price of an Asscher cut diamond is influenced by the 4 Cs, just like any other diamond. However, certain factors are more pronounced for this cut:

• Rarity: Asscher cuts are less common than round brilliants or emerald cuts, which can sometimes command a slightly higher price per carat for comparable quality.
• Cutting Skill: The precision required to execute an Asscher cut means that diamonds cut by highly skilled artisans will be more expensive.
• Brand Premium: Patented cuts like the Royal Asscher often carry a brand premium.
• Proportions and Symmetry: A well-proportioned and symmetrical Asscher cut with excellent facet alignment will be more valuable.
• Clarity and Color: As mentioned, higher clarity and color grades are essential for Asscher cuts and will significantly increase the price.

Generally, Asscher cut diamonds can range from moderately expensive to very expensive, depending on the quality and specific characteristics of the stone.

Care and Maintenance

Asscher cut diamonds are relatively durable, but their unique structure requires careful handling:

• Cleaning: Clean your Asscher cut jewelry regularly using a soft brush, warm water, and a mild dish soap. Rinse thoroughly and dry with a lint-free cloth. Ultrasonic cleaners can be used with caution, but avoid them if the stone has had a fracture filling treatment or if it has an open culet which could be damaged.
• Protection: The corners of an Asscher cut are susceptible to chipping, although less so than a true emerald cut due to the truncated corners. A protective setting, such as a bezel or a halo, can help prevent damage.
• Avoid Harsh Chemicals: Exposure to household chemicals, perfumes, and lotions can dull the diamond's sparkle. Remove jewelry before engaging in activities that might expose it to such substances.
• Professional Inspection: Have your Asscher cut jewelry inspected by a professional jeweler at least once a year to check the setting and the stone for any signs of wear or damage.

Pros and Cons

Pros:

• Unique and Elegant: Offers a sophisticated, vintage appeal distinct from other cuts.
• Striking Geometric Pattern: The hall-of-mirrors effect is mesmerizing.
• Highlights Clarity: Showcases the internal beauty and clarity of the diamond.
• Good Value for Step Cuts: Can sometimes be more affordable than equivalent-quality round brilliant diamonds.
• Art Deco Aesthetic: Perfectly suits vintage-inspired or Art Deco jewelry designs.

Cons:

• Less Brilliance and Fire: Does not exhibit the intense sparkle of brilliant cuts.
• Inclusions More Noticeable: Requires a higher clarity grade for optimal appearance.
• Color More Noticeable: Requires a higher color grade to appear colorless.
• Corner Durability: The corners are more vulnerable to chipping than some other cuts, though less so than an emerald cut.
• Can Appear Smaller: Due to its cutting style, it may have a smaller face-up appearance than a round brilliant of the same carat weight.

Famous Examples

While specific, highly publicized Asscher cuts are less common than famous round brilliants, the style is beloved by many for its understated elegance. Some notable examples include:

• The Elizabeth Taylor Diamond: While often referred to as a cushion cut, this historic 33.19-carat diamond has a distinct Asscher-like square shape with cropped corners and large, stepped facets, showcasing a remarkable clarity and brilliance.
• The Duchess of Cambridge's Engagement Ring: While the center stone is a classic sapphire, its oval shape and surrounding diamonds are often compared to Art Deco styles, and many contemporary engagement rings featuring Asscher-cut diamonds draw inspiration from this era. Many celebrities have chosen Asscher cuts for their engagement rings, appreciating its unique blend of vintage charm and modern sophistication.

Common Misconceptions

Misconception 1: All Asscher cuts are the same.

Reality: While the core design is consistent, variations like the Royal Asscher cut have different facet counts and proportions, affecting their brilliance and appearance. Also, the quality of the cut can vary significantly between manufacturers.

Misconception 2: Asscher cuts are not sparkly.

Reality: They do not have the same intense, fiery sparkle as round brilliant cuts. Instead, they offer a unique, deep, geometric sparkle with flashes of light, often described as hypnotic or like looking into a hall of mirrors.

Misconception 3: Asscher cuts are prone to chipping.

Reality: While the corners are slightly more vulnerable than some other cuts, the truncated corners of the Asscher cut offer more protection than the sharp corners of a classic emerald cut. Using a protective setting further minimizes risk.

Related Terms

• Emerald Cut
• Step Cut
• Brilliant Cut
• Art Deco
• Diamond Clarity
• Diamond Color
• Culet
• Facet
• Girdle

FAQs

What is the difference between an Asscher cut and an emerald cut?

The Asscher cut is a square step cut with cropped corners, while the emerald cut is typically a rectangular step cut with cropped corners. The Asscher cut has a smaller ‘table’ (the flat top facet) and a more pronounced ‘culet’ (the bottom point), creating a distinctive hall-of-mirrors effect, whereas the emerald cut has a larger open table, resulting in a more linear, window-like appearance.

Is an Asscher cut good for an engagement ring?

Yes, an Asscher cut is an excellent choice for an engagement ring. It offers a unique, elegant, and sophisticated style that stands out from more common cuts. Its Art Deco origins lend it a timeless appeal.

What clarity and color should I look for in an Asscher cut diamond?

Due to the large, open facets of the Asscher cut, inclusions and color are more visible. It is generally recommended to aim for a clarity grade of VS1 or higher and a color grade of G or higher to ensure the diamond appears clean and colorless.

Are Asscher cut diamonds more expensive than round diamonds?

This depends on the quality. For equivalent grades of clarity and color, Asscher cuts can sometimes be slightly less expensive per carat than round brilliant diamonds because they are less popular. However, a high-quality, well-cut Asscher, especially a branded one like the Royal Asscher, can be quite pricey.