Diamond Cuts & Gem Shapes

Asscher Cut Diamonds

The Asscher cut is a captivating step cut diamond shape renowned for its square silhouette and a distinctive 'windmill' or 'X' pattern visible through its pavilion. It offers a unique blend of geometric elegance and sophisticated sparkle, making it a favored choice for those seeking an alternative to traditional round diamonds.

Key Features

The Asscher cut is characterized by several key features that distinguish it from other diamond shapes:

  • Square Outline: It possesses a nearly perfect square shape, with length and width measurements that are very close.
  • Stepped Facets: Unlike brilliant cuts that feature triangular or kite-shaped facets, the Asscher cut has long, straight, parallel step facets that run from the culet (the point at the bottom) to the edges of the crown (the top part).
  • Large Open Culet: Traditionally, Asscher cuts feature a truncated or open culet, meaning there is a small, flat surface at the bottom point rather than a sharp point. This contributes to the characteristic visual effect.
  • Hall of Mirrors Effect: The combination of stepped facets and the open culet creates a unique optical phenomenon known as the 'hall of mirrors' or 'windmill' effect. This effect presents concentric square patterns that appear to recede into the stone, creating a deep and mesmerizing visual.
  • High Crown and Deep Pavilion: Asscher cuts typically have a high crown and a deep pavilion, which can enhance their brilliance and fire, although they may also absorb more light than shallower cuts.

Origin and History

The Asscher cut was developed by the Asscher brothers of Holland in the early 20th century. Joseph Asscher refined a cut that was patented in 1902. This innovative design was a modification of the emerald cut, aiming to maximize the brilliance of the diamond while maintaining its distinctive step-cut appearance. The cut quickly gained popularity and was a significant design of the Art Deco era, known for its geometric shapes and sophisticated aesthetic. The original patent expired, leading to various interpretations and modifications of the cut over the years.

Types / Variations

While the classic Asscher cut remains popular, there are variations that have emerged:

  • Royal Asscher Cut: Patented by the modern-day Asscher Diamond Company, this variation features 57 facets, including 16 extra facets on the pavilion compared to the original 52-facet cut. This modification is designed to enhance brilliance and sparkle, creating a more intense 'hall of mirrors' effect.
  • Modified Asscher Cuts: Some manufacturers produce modified Asscher cuts with slightly different facet arrangements or proportions to achieve varying levels of sparkle or to optimize yield from a rough diamond. These may have a slightly more rectangular shape or different facet counts.

How It's Made

Creating an Asscher cut diamond involves a precise and skilled process:

  1. Rough Diamond Selection: The process begins with selecting a high-quality rough diamond, preferably one with a good internal structure and shape that lends itself to a square, step-cut design.
  2. Blocking: The rough diamond is precisely cut to establish its basic outline and proportions.
  3. Bruting: The girdle of the diamond is shaped.
  4. Polishing: The facets are meticulously polished. For an Asscher cut, this involves creating the long, parallel step facets on the crown and pavilion. The unique arrangement of these facets, along with the open culet, is crucial for achieving the signature 'hall of mirrors' effect. The number of facets can vary, with traditional Asschers having 52 facets and variations like the Royal Asscher having more.
  5. Inspection: The finished diamond is carefully inspected to ensure it meets the desired aesthetic and quality standards.

Grading & Quality Standards

When evaluating an Asscher cut diamond, several factors influence its quality and value:

  • Cut: This is paramount for Asscher cuts. The precision of the facet arrangement, the depth, and the symmetry are critical for achieving the desired 'hall of mirrors' effect and overall sparkle. Look for sharp facet lines and a well-defined pattern.
  • Color: Asscher cuts, like other step cuts, tend to show more body color than brilliant cuts because the facets are larger and less reflective. Therefore, a higher color grade (closer to colorless) is generally preferred. While colorless (D-F) is ideal, G-H can still appear very white in this cut.
  • Clarity: Inclusions can be more visible in Asscher cuts due to their large, open facets. Aim for a clarity grade of VS1 or higher for the best appearance, though VVS grades are preferred if budget allows.
  • Carat Weight: While not a direct measure of quality, carat weight affects price. The proportions of an Asscher cut can make it appear slightly smaller than a round diamond of the same carat weight.

Buying Guide

Choosing an Asscher cut diamond involves considering personal preferences and understanding the unique characteristics of the shape:

  • Aesthetic Appeal: Do you appreciate the geometric elegance and sophisticated sparkle of step cuts? The Asscher offers a vintage yet modern appeal.
  • Engagement Rings: Asscher cuts are striking choices for engagement rings, often set in solitaire, halo, or three-stone settings. Their square shape makes them look substantial.
  • Settings: Consider how the diamond will be set. Prongs should protect the corners, which can be vulnerable. Bezel settings offer excellent protection.
  • Budget: Asscher cuts can be more affordable per carat than round brilliant cuts, especially if you are open to slight color or clarity imperfections that are not easily visible.
  • Visual Inspection: Whenever possible, view the diamond in person. Look for the clarity of the 'hall of mirrors' effect and assess how well the diamond performs in terms of sparkle and light reflection.

Price Range & Value Factors

The price of an Asscher cut diamond is influenced by the same 4 Cs as other diamonds (Cut, Color, Clarity, Carat Weight), but with specific considerations:

  • Cut Precision: A perfectly executed Asscher cut with a strong 'hall of mirrors' effect will command a higher price than one with poorly aligned facets or a weak visual pattern.
  • Color: As mentioned, Asschers show color more readily, so higher color grades (D-G) will be more expensive.
  • Clarity: Diamonds with fewer visible inclusions (VVS, VS) are pricier than those with more noticeable flaws (SI).
  • Carat Weight: Larger diamonds are exponentially more expensive.
  • Brand/Certification: Diamonds with certifications from reputable labs (like GIA) and from well-known brands may have a higher price point.
  • Market Demand: While less popular than round brilliants, Asscher cuts have a steady demand, particularly among those seeking unique styles.

Care and Maintenance

Asscher cut diamonds require careful handling and cleaning:

  • Cleaning: Use a soft brush, warm water, and a mild dish soap. Gently scrub the diamond and the setting, then rinse thoroughly and pat dry with a lint-free cloth. Avoid harsh chemicals, ultrasonic cleaners (unless specifically advised by a jeweler for certain settings), and abrasive materials.
  • Protection: The corners of an Asscher cut can be more susceptible to chipping than those of a round diamond. Consider protective settings like bezels or V-prongs on the corners.
  • Storage: Store your Asscher cut jewelry separately from other pieces to prevent scratches and damage. Use a soft pouch or a lined jewelry box.

Pros and Cons

Pros:

  • Unique and Sophisticated: Offers a distinctive look compared to round diamonds.
  • Geometric Elegance: Appeals to those who appreciate clean lines and Art Deco aesthetics.
  • 'Hall of Mirrors' Effect: Creates a captivating and mesmerizing visual depth.
  • Appears Larger Than Some Cuts: Due to its square shape and faceting, it can sometimes appear larger than a round diamond of the same carat weight.
  • Often More Affordable: Can offer better value per carat compared to round brilliant cuts, especially when considering color and clarity.

Cons:

  • Shows Color More Readily: Requires a higher color grade to appear truly colorless.
  • Inclusions More Visible: Clarity flaws can be more noticeable than in brilliant cuts.
  • Less Sparkle Than Round Brilliant: While it has brilliance and fire, it generally exhibits less scintillation (flickering sparkle) than a well-cut round brilliant.
  • Potential for Chipping: The corners are more vulnerable than those of a round diamond if not properly protected by the setting.

Famous Examples

The Asscher cut has graced some notable pieces of jewelry:

  • The Royal Asscher: While not a specific famous diamond, the Royal Asscher cut itself is a prominent example, known for its enhanced brilliance and the trademarked facet pattern. Many celebrities and royalty have chosen this cut for engagement rings.
  • Elizabeth Taylor's Engagement Ring: While often cited as a square emerald cut, some sources suggest it may have been a modified Asscher or a large square emerald cut, showcasing the similar sophisticated appeal.
  • The Brangelina engagement ring: The engagement ring given to Angelina Jolie by Brad Pitt featured a large Asscher cut diamond, highlighting its modern appeal and elegance.

Common Misconceptions

Several misunderstandings surround the Asscher cut:

  • All Asschers are the same: This is untrue, as there are variations like the Royal Asscher with more facets and enhanced brilliance.
  • They lack sparkle: While different from the fiery sparkle of a round brilliant, Asscher cuts offer a distinct brilliance and the captivating 'hall of mirrors' effect.
  • They are fragile: Like any diamond, they are hard, but the corners require attention and protective settings.

Related Terms

  • Step Cut
  • Emerald Cut
  • Square Cut
  • Hall of Mirrors Effect
  • Royal Asscher Cut
  • Geometric Cut
  • Art Deco Jewelry

FAQs

What is the difference between an Asscher cut and an emerald cut?

Both are step cuts with square or rectangular outlines and parallel facets. The key difference is shape: Asscher cuts are square, while emerald cuts can be square or rectangular. Asscher cuts also typically feature a larger open culet and a more pronounced 'hall of mirrors' effect due to their specific facet arrangement.

Is an Asscher cut good for an engagement ring?

Yes, Asscher cuts are excellent choices for engagement rings. They offer a unique, elegant, and sophisticated look that stands out. Their square shape can also make them appear larger and more substantial.

Are Asscher cut diamonds more or less expensive than round diamonds?

Generally, Asscher cuts are less expensive per carat than round brilliant cuts of comparable quality. This is because the cutting process is less wasteful for certain rough diamonds, and the demand is lower than for round brilliants.

Do Asscher cuts sparkle a lot?

Asscher cuts exhibit brilliance and a unique 'hall of mirrors' effect, which is a deep, captivating sparkle. However, they typically have less intense scintillation (the flashes of light seen when the diamond moves) compared to a well-cut round brilliant diamond due to their stepped facets.

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